i sandblasted...why is it wrong to do? cause u might not get all teh sand out?

 

because you will totally ruin your side, corner and apex grooves. I cant see them clearencing out very well after sand blasing. If you just do the tops then fine. They are really not that hard to clean!



GregW

 

I just used Zep Purple with fantastic results. I was uncertain as to whether It would eat at the Bearings or not. Regardless, they had to be replaced. But we were amazed on how well It turned out after when I removed my entire Engine from the parts cleaner.

 

I use a steam cleaner, with just distilled water in it and have had very good luck.

 

Check this out, I had mine done at a machine shop, they did a boiling process for $20 for the pair. The reason you don't want to sandblast is because it will remove material were it



I can't get the pics to post, just go up to my post about my new parts that I got.

 

This is what my friend told me to do last time.



Basically I wanted to avoid soaking the rotors in anything, because I was going to reuse one of my bearings. It only has about 4k miles on it. The other one was the same, but it was scratched. Aparently some crap went through my oil or something. It scratched a bearing and my e-shaft. I had to get a new(used) e-shaft.



I'll just continue to scrub away at them. They're pretty clean already. I just need to make sure all the seals are clearanced properly and move real smoothly. I had a sticky corner seal when I took the engine apart.

 

Bad idea. First off, sand is meant for heavy rust removal on heavy iron. Never use this on such a precision part. As has been mentioned, it WILL remove material. Oh and lets not forget that the sand will shatter when it hits the metal, creating dust that will cause silicosis so NEVER use it in a cabinet or indoors no matter what. Next on the list is aluminum oxide. Less abrasive but is still more geared to use on iron/steel for rust removal. Better would be glass bead. Removes corrosion and crap without removing metal. Suitable for softer metals but still works well on iron/steel. Next would be walnut shells. Less abrasive but works slower, again for soft materials. Last would be baking soda. Very mild and suitable for soft materials. HTH

 

Look on page two of my car pics.

click for shiny rotors

 

Wow that's clean. Looks practically new. :-O

 

Where I work, we glass-bead many parts, some of them rather sensitive to dimensions. Glass beading will not remove material from the base metal, just the junk you want off in the first place.



It does have to be dry, though, so you have to degrease it first, say in a bucket of Berryman's carburetor dip. Berryman's will annihilate any carbon based material, just as oil, carbon deposits, and anything rubber. Dunk in the bucket overnight, rinse with regular old parts cleaner such as kerosene or mineral spirits, and you will probably find that glass beading will be unnecessary.