Grizzly

Ok, I have the Task of replacing a set of FD Stationary gear bearings coming up.



I've been doing a bit of reading and it would seem they are quite easy to distort when pressing in the new ones.



BUT!! I've just taken one of the old bearings out and tbh it was not tight at all, Would you guys recomen there done with all the corrct gear at an Engine Builders or is it some thing you can do with a Press and a bit of Know how?



I would just go ahead and do it but i think the guy got stung on the new Bearings (£50 each or roughly $90 each) so i don't want to scrap them for him if they do go out of shape easly.



I've just read the Post thats stuck at the Top about Rotor bearings but i changed a set of those recently and they seemed to be alot stronger (don't have a big sut out in the Middle)

Lynn E. Hanover

I think there are no answers yet because nobody here knows what (don't have a big sut in the Middle) means. Well me neither????



The main bearings go in just a bit easier than the rotor bearings just because there is less area involved in the crush fit.



So sit them on the table and using a little square and Majic Marker, draw lines down the bearing shell in line with the locking tab on the bearing. This is to asure that the tab centers up in the notch and the oil hole in the bearing shell lines up with the oil gallery in the stationary gear.



Use a pusher that is just slightly bigger than the bearing shell so it will stop dead flush with the end of the hole in the stationary gear.



I chamfer about 1/8" of the leading end of the bearing on a sanding belt so it starts into the gear with no damage.



I don't add any locktite or use any tricks at all. Well, I do make the oil hole in the bearing shell a bit bigger than stock. Enough so none of it overhangs the edge of the hole. You can match up the holes with a die grinder afterwords, but in three window bearings, it is hell to get every last bit of swarf out of the bearing.



Not tricks. Just square and straight to start and walk it on in with the press. No big deal if you have access to a press.



I made a set of pushers years ago, and it makes this job a breeze.



Lynn E. Hanover

Grizzly

Sorry, Wrote that without my Contacts in



"I think there are no answers yet because nobody here knows what (don't have a big sut in the Middle) means. Well me neither????"



I ment CUT!! as in Cut out, just spelt it wrong and forget the "Out" bit. (Just put it down to having a Bad week)



Thanks for the Reply, I think i was being a Little paranoid as i was on a Bit of a Downer after my End play problem.

GMON

First time I did it I just grabbed my box of stat gears and pushed a few nasty ones out. Then proceded to install them like I would the new bearings. Once you see how they move and what cases them to get hung up its pretty straight foreward.



On the 20 ton press I ended up putting some tape arround the return springs of the press. Every time the bearing would move a slight bit it would go BOOOM and then the springs would shake. Once the tape was on the springs the noise was a whole lot quieter.