guitarjunkie28

oh yea... that was another thought too. no carbon buildup.

RONIN FC

I cant see the fuel droplets sticking to something that hot and moving.

guitarjunkie28

that was my argument.



but i dunno... we'll see

crispeed

Have been doing that since the late 80's. It's all in the tuning and combination. One of the most important factor in running high compression would be to keep everything cool. As a matter of fact in my experience it don't matter if it's high or low compression if you're trying to run high boost on low octane(93 pump) if your combination will not support it. Always remember heat is a rotary #1 enemy be it by coolant or air intake temps. A lot of people don't realise how much impact coolant temps can effect total psi on low octane fuel. Ever wondered why 3rd gens are more likely to experience knock on low octane. Even with the biggest most efficent I/C it's added benefits would be deminished by high coolant operating temps resulting in high underhood temps leading also to high intake air temps. That's only a part of the problem. This from my experience is what is responsible for majority of the problems in that high coolant temps leads to high rotor housing temps which also leads to high spark plug tip temps which results in pre-ignition which I believe is what rotaries sufffer mostly from especially around the trailing spark plug area.

Everyone is always trying to blame compression and low octane as the killer. Sure it's easier to have less mistakes running high octane and low compression but why suffer all the ill effect of doing that when there are other methods that can be done to obtain positive results. A balance must be acheived somewhere in the combination. You got to choose which of the following will do so and also most important in which order of importance. Just a small list off the top of my head. Air intake temps. Coolant temps. Oil temps. Spark plug heat range. Rotor housing coolant passage modifications. A/F ratio. Total ignition timing. Fuel octane. Compression ratio just to name a few.

guitarjunkie28

good info..



i've got a dual oil cooler setup i made, aluminum oil pan (9 qt total system capacity), 5" thick intercooler, 2-pass radiator, good ems to control everything...

i'd say i've got all the ingredients to make things work.



but then again, just because you have all the ingredients in your kitchen doesn't mean you can bake

RONIN FC

This is a street car?

goldedge

Hi, assuming a stock S6 fd3s running rx8 rotors stationary gears and standard factory ecu,

will the ecu knock sensor/ignition retard be quick enough to protect the engine?



Or is there an addon unit to improve the speed/response/effectiveness enough

to make it work with a margin of safety with the std ECU?



Or should you go straight to an aftermarket system?



Thanks

Michael

mazdaspeed7

You cant run rx8 stat gears without a rx8 eccentric shaft. The oil journals for the main bearings are in different spots.

R.P.M.

Really? I was unaware of that........

rotarygod

They are off by about 1/16th of an inch.



If you use the rear stationary gear from a Renesis on a 13B, you need to run a bead of gasket sealer around it. The older stationary gears had an o-ring at their base that sealed them to the rear housing. The Renesis rear gear does not have that o-ring or the groove for one. The o-ring is actually on the rear housing. This is why you need sealant. Lots of little differences between engines.