'79rx7

How many miles and what rpms are you guys recommending...



I was told 1,000 miles change the oil, and take it up to 5,000 rpm then at 1,500 miles drive it the way i normally would...



what do you guys reconmend?....



Thanks

Shay

mazdaspeed7

Thats a good bit longer than what I do. First 500 miles, staying under 4500 rpm(no boost if turbo), change the oil/filter, and gradually raise the redline until 1000 miles.

'79rx7

Oh yeah and with 450 miles on it the compression number are in the lowwer 5's

mazdaspeed7

Those seals are very hard, and take a long time to fully wear in, especially on used housings.

Kathy Atkins

Low 5's are real low, how's she starting???? Ours are usually in the 8.9 - 10's even with used housings...

mazdaspeed7

With your apex seals? They are considerably softer than the RA ones.



The numbers are still low, but give it another 1000 miles, and see how it fares from there.

'79rx7

The housing were in great shape, about a 9 on a 1-10 scale, the rotary doctor assembled the engine i trust his work... He had said these seals don't show the higher compression numbers for about 3,000-5,000 miles. and that's the compression on a factory mazda compression tester i'm not sure what you guys are using, but only once have i seen an engine with compression even in the 9's

jspecracer7

scarthart did some testing on the these seals for compression and found that they have the best compression after 3000 miles(if memory serves me correct).

scathcart

It was 5000 miles, actually. I have done a few tests on these seals and a couple others for personal information, and so far, I have been very pleased with the results from the RWS seals.

They have held 200 hp nitrous shots for 25+ seconds intervals for me (at 11.8:1 AFR and timing appropriately retarded), so I can't understand any issues being brought up about warping when the seals are properly fitted.

scathcart

Keep in mind that is when I tend to achieve peak compression, with testing done very 500 miles. You can vary your break-in periods and styles however your engine builder sees fit.



When using these seals, i use this:

-Start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes.

-Change the oil and filter (this removes any bearing wear from new bearings, if used, and any material that was left in the oil passages after sonic cleaning, etc).

- Idle the engine to 2000 for 90 minutes.

- Initial tune for cruising load, 13.2-13.5 AFR under cruising load.

- Drive 1000 miles with carry load, using lots of starts and stops, no hard launches, no WOT, no boost, and no engine rpms over 4000 rpm.

- Change the oil and filter.

- Drive 2000 miles, highway miles work fine, no hard launches, no WOT, no boost, and no engine rpms over 4500 rpms.

- Change oil and filter.

- Drive 2000 miles, highway is fine, easy launches, no WOT, boost under 5 psi, no engine rpms over 5000

-Change oil and filter, retune car for WOT and cruise AFR.