Corprin

Okay, here is the story....



I bought my '87 T2 off a guy I work with, who I found 6mo before on the side of the highway in my car. He said the car started to loose power, and pulled over to the side. One of the oil lines on the bottom passenger side of the block blew off, and was spraying oil out. When I got to the car I checked the dipstick, and it was dry. I had the car towed back to our building, and it sat for months.



HE said that he rebuilt the motor with an atkins kit (Atkins is about 20min away) but the car wasn't quite right. I paid $500 for the car in nonrunning order, and there it has sat sence.



The car cranks freely, and will start right up BUT after I let off the key/starter the engine will die. I can pin the gas to the floor, start it again, and she will run but only at 3000rpm. The car pops and spits and spews out smoke like there is no tommrow. Sounds like a 2-stroke engine puttering away. I know they have a different sound, but this is TOO different! The engine had not been run in about 8mo by this time, and I didn't know **** about rotaries. I am wondering if the ATF trick would work. If I remember coorectly the smoke is white, with a small amount of blue in it. He said he used all new seals, etc with the rebuild, but I can't believe him. I need my car to commute to work, as my friend was desprate and NEEDED a car, so I sold my AE86.



Pay day I am going to finally invest in a compression testor, and run both rotors. What kind of compression should I be looking for, and can I run it by hand cranking, or must I run the starter to do it right?? Should I do the ATF trick right away, or wait till after I post up my compression results? The engine hasn't been turned in months.



I really need my baby back on the road!

BDC

Good question, Corprin. It sounds like a mess. On the dipstick, check for signs of varnish. Also, check to make sure the coolant overflow bottle isn't getting coolant spewed out of it when you first start the engine. What I'm interested in here is signs of overheating due to oil loss as well as any warpage of any of the housings as evidenced by overpressurization in the cooling system.



On the engine running problems, there's no telling since we've got no history to work with here.



If you need the motor re-done, shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to cut you a deal on a good re-assembly as well as any porting work you need. You can see my work here at http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures in the meantime.



Let me know how the car turns out.



B

j9fd3s

i'm cunfused did the engine get rebuilt? of just sit? if it got rebuilt i'll say the cas got installed wrong



mike

BDC

That's one possibility. The problem I'm facing here is more of a 'writer's block' in that I'm not exactly sure where to start without seeing the car in-person. There's no history on the mechanical condition of the car prior to him buying it so I'm kind of at a "hands in the air" stage. I'd say look for the basics -> unplugged AFM, loose intake hoses and clamps, unplugged sensors, etc. The CAS suggestion is a very good one by the way and worth checking as well.



B

j9fd3s

That's one possibility. The problem I'm facing here is more of a 'writer's block' in that I'm not exactly sure where to start without seeing the car in-person. There's no history on the mechanical condition of the car prior to him buying it so I'm kind of at a "hands in the air" stage. I'd say look for the basics -> unplugged AFM, loose intake hoses and clamps, unplugged sensors, etc. The CAS suggestion is a very good one by the way and worth checking as well.



B [/quote]

its the only thing i can think of that will make it sputter at 3k rpms, unplugged afm it would start and die, big vacuum leak maybe?



mike

Corprin

I understand it's hard to get an idea when there is no history of the motor. Because the guy is shady, I will just go by what I saw...



Oil line popped off, engine started losing power, and he pulled over. After I found the lack of oil, He started the car fine, and drove it to the other side of the road. Popped the hood and had him start again, the oil was spurting from what looked like the passenger side of the front plate. I assumed it had blown.



The car was towed back to base, and it sat for a while. He said that he found the oil line off, and replaced it. The rebuild is shady, and I am going to assume that it was never done.



What is the CAS?



Like I said, the car runs when the gas is on the floor, but only runs at 3000rpm, and spits MAJOR amounts of smoke. I'll have my roomie get a pic of the smoke this weekend so I can show you all what I see. Also, there are some unplugged items on the relay block under the driver's side of the intercooler.



Here are a couple pics of those connectors.

Corprin

another

DJ Blu

when i got my car, it was the same way, i was hoping it would just be an oxygen sensor or something. My car wouldn't hold an idle until it was warmed up (after sitting w/my foot on the gas @ around 3000 rpms for like 15 minutes) i ran a compression test and it was a mess. 70,70,70 on the front rotor and 0,0,0 on the rear rotor.



When u do ur compression test a new motor will have around 92,92,92 compression. A rebuild is usually in order if the rotor falls to 85 or so and the atf trick did not help



good luck w/it....



keep me posted, i'm tearing my engine apart this week, to do my rebuild so i might be able to help alittle, i don't know that much though



goodluck, i hope it still has its compression



-jeff