I got the old one out with a 3 jaw puller..



I noticed some pitting in the shaft under the bearing (but not from the 3 jaw puller) What can this be from and what will it do?



I TRIED installing the new one with a bushing installer. The bearing itself is flush with the shaft lip, but it has to go in another few mm further so there is room to accept the bearing seal.



So my installer won't push the bearing in any further (since it's beyond the lip of the shaft) so I tried pushing the seal against the bearing to go further in but two light hammer taps warped the seal very badly.



I don't know if the sleeve of the bearing is caught up on some pitting in the shaft? How are you guys installing them?



Help me out here.



I'm a little pissed off I have to wait for another pilot bearing seal to arrive from Mazda.



Should I be using a specific mazda tool for this or what?

I've installed two pilot bearings. I think I used 14mm sockets both times. The most recent time, I left it in the freezer for a while. It tapped right in (20B).



The first one I ever did had a little bit of pitting in the E shaft because my dremel tool ended up cutting past the race and into the E shaft a little. The pilot bearing still tapped in and has been fine ever since ('98).



Be sure to reduce any high spots inside the E shaft hole.

i think i use an 11mm deep socket, its gotta press the bearing in on the outer race and still fit in the hole

Okay so I have to push the bearing in all the way.. Then how do I install the seal without damaging it?



Good idea with the freezer. I should have thought of that.

I did the "freeze" method too and used a socket to push it in. Seal, same way. I remember using alot of "lubricant" for both. I hope it was white lithium grease.

FSM just says multi-purpose grease.. Which is what I used to get the bearing in...

I think I might have used a very thin film of oil. Just enough to barely wet the metal.

i tap the bearing in and then put the seal in with my thumb, or if its stubborn it gets tapped with the hammer too

Well I got my problem sorted out. Thanks guys.

I bought the Mazda puller/installer, made my life much easier https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Is that the piece that mazdatrix sells? http://mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm



pilot bearing remover?

Yup that's it, when it comes to removing the pb that's the only way to go, it's quick, clean and you won't **** the e-shaft up getting it out.

sweet. i've done 2 pilots bearings on rx7's (both fc's) and each time was pure hell. If its THAT MUCH easier with the tool, its worth the $100+. Looks like i'll be picking that up too...*fingers crossed* it works like everyone says. thanks.



-Marc

Take a regular pilot tool, cut down the teeth a little so it fits. Two finger pilot tool and a slide hammer (dent puller)

That's what I did with a 3 jaw puller..



The tabs on the puller are ground down a touch to fit properly



Pulled out the bearing flawlessly. The pitting in my circumstance wasn't from the puller though.

AND the 14mm socket idea was perfect I should add.



You don't need a seal driver to be honest, a 14mm 3/4" drive deep socket (+ extension to hammer on) fit perfectly snug in my spare eccentric shaft (with no bearing in it).



I wish I knew that before buying a bushing install kit.

its a mazda, your sockets and press tools can become one!