Pic of some machined 13B parts
07-14-2006, 04:25 PM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 23
All work was done by me. Had a bit of help from a friend to do the dowells.
I am based in auckland new zealand. I have built 5 Motors in the past two weeks and have one
more to do than no more . I am going to spend the next two years building and completing all my projects.
I am based in auckland new zealand. I have built 5 Motors in the past two weeks and have one
more to do than no more . I am going to spend the next two years building and completing all my projects.
07-15-2006, 02:19 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 23
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' post='828536' date='Jul 14 2006, 05:14 PM
I wonder if that would weaken the E-shaft.
NOW DAYS PEOPLE USE 2 PIECE AND CENTER BEARING SET UP. IT COST ME 5K NZ TO BUILD WITH ALL NEW PARTS .ONLY THING SECOUND HAND WAS THE ROTORS.
07-15-2006, 02:38 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by BUCLUP' post='828561' date='Jul 15 2006, 12:19 AM
I GOT SPEC OF E SHAFT FROM A FRIEND IN AUSTRALIA.HE HAS RUN HIS CAR HIGH 8s.
NOW DAYS PEOPLE USE 2 PIECE AND CENTER BEARING SET UP. IT COST ME 5K NZ TO BUILD WITH ALL NEW PARTS .ONLY THING SECOUND HAND WAS THE ROTORS.I WAS GOING TO USE THE EXTREME STUD KIT ( 12.7MM ) BUT AS THIS MOTOR IS GOING TO BE IN A STREET CAR I WENT WITH THE DOWELLS.
STUD KIT IS THE WAY TO GO.IT COST THE SAME IF YOU BUY THE 10MM OR 12.7 FROM EXTREME AROUND $395.00 AUS FOR 13B KIT.