kahren

i belive mazdatrix has the factory mazda seals which are more expnsive to begin with.



i order all my seals form atkins, you pretty much just need the rotor kit they have and teh gasket set. i dono what else you will need for the rebuidl but this is pretty much every seal except the side seals which really dont wear unless there is somethign wrong with yours its another 100 bucks from atkins. i preffer atknis over the aviation seals but to each his own. for a high power turbo engine i would get the aviation apex seals since i think they will be able to take a little more abuse then the atkins ones. there hasnt been enouf data yet from peopel running them for along enouf time to prove this. so take it as is.



what is your plan with this engine and what series engien is this?

CGeek2k

Its an s4 engine but I hope to have s5 rotors in it. Its just an n/a so I dont think I have to worry about too much power.



I want to have this car be my DD. I am looking for a TII for me to fix up for performance but I havent been able to find any near me. I guess no one thinks theres much point to having a high power car at altitude.

kahren

make sure to use the s5 flywheel and front counter weight...

othewise your bearings are gonan wear prematurely

CGeek2k

Yeah, I got a semi-complete s5 for a parts car. Im gonna scavenge what I can off it and sell the rest.

CGeek2k

How do the solid atkins corner seals compare to the stock RA corner seals in terms of wear on the housing and streetability? The durabilty doesnt matter much to me as im running n/a.



Also the RA kit includes the thrust bearing and the oil pump chain. Are these parts that I will want to replace during the rebuild?



Thnx

kahren

u gotta measure teh slack onteh chain, its almost alwys good, same for the bearing.



about the corner seal i doubt it wears out faster i havent build engines with solid seal that has had many miles on it so i cant realyl tell, if anythign i think the solid seal will wear out slower since there is more surface area with same amount of force being exerted onto the surface.



why not just go with a stock corner seal? unless u ported a lot?

CGeek2k

The Atkins kit comes with solid corner seals.

kahren

i dont think so ?

unless u ask for them u can get either i am sure i think its the same price

if anythign diffrence of a few dollars

CGeek2k

Here It says that kits B and C come with 'corner seal solid'. I guess i could just ask for the stock ones though. Also, I dont have access to a hydraulic press so I dont think I can install the bearings so the only difference between B and C is the oil seal springs. Are these likely to wear out? Im not overly concerned by the difference in price but $90 for something that I dont have to change seems kinda pointless, no?



I just realized I never stated the condition of the engine, maybe this will help. The engine has about 120,000 original miles on it. I dont have any compression numbers but it feels like its running great. The problem is that the coolant o-rings are going bad. No overheating yet but it will boil over after hard driving and a rotary shop near me tested the coolant and said Im forcing combustion gasses into the coolant system. I figured, while its apart I might as well replace everything I need to so that I wont have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles. I am also planning a very mild street port, mostly just cleaning up the casting.



P.S. thanks for bearing with me through all these stupid questions, i just want to make sure Im getting the right parts for the job and I dont make some stupid mistake that kills my rex.



Andy

kahren

dont look at whats on that site, call them and tell them that u need the "gasket set" which comes with everything you need for the teardown excep teh injector fuel rail o rings. and get the "rotor kit" which comes with all teh hard seals you need except the side seals.



you shoudl realyl take apprt your engine to see whats up. if the bearings are good its better to use teh old ones then have the new ones installed as a rule of thumb.

when you take it apprt you can make that descision and measure them also to see if they are within spec.



if the oil has been changed regularly and coolant, and teh motor was beat on it shoudl look really good inside. once again something u dont know of untill u take it apprart.



streetporting i would do per mazdatrix website specifications or so... port the primary a lot but dont put too much overlap if any at all if you want the low end to stay teh same, and just smooth out the secondary ports, you will notice almost NO gains if you port the secondary or aux ports, they are already large enough that the most restrictionis the intake manifold.