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Opinions on my P.port housings

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Old 12-31-2005, 05:49 AM
  #41  
Kim
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where did u get the port sleeves


I made them






Did I win?

Lynn E. Hanover


No but close, it has something to do with the oilhose though



Ha ha I know im being goofy, i put that oilhose on the pump, just for storage, it should fit on the oil cooler.



Once again thanks for the added tech tips.





Happy New Year to all of the forum users



Kim K. Nielsen
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:41 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='791043' date='Dec 31 2005, 05:05 AM



If that has a metal clutch disc in there, it is designed to act like a switch. Engaged or not engeged. And it can get grabby. If you slip it too much it will warp a bit, and be less grabby. New at .105" Worn out at .093".

Its a dual plate 7½" Tilton unit and yes its like a switch



I would have oiled both ends of the main gallery. (top dowel pin hole).

Im not quite sure what you mean by that, could be my lack of english spec.terminology





I would loose the stock looking oil filter mount and used an aftermarket filter mount with a K&N high pressure spin on can.

A dual filter adaptor is on my wishlist, but not a prioity



The dip stick hole should have been tapped for a proper plug, but a cut off dip stick will work.

I use it as, in lack of better words, "crankcase" vent. a hose plugs in and goes to the catchtank





I would loose the stock igniters. They cross fire now and then, and can kill an engine.

I have never experienced that with j-109 igniters or maybe just didnt notice



Run both MSDs from the leading mag pickup. The trailing pickup is not used. Run the wires through some dash 4 stainless hose. Ground the stainless braid.

No MSD on this puppy, the stock CDI system will have to do for now. Racing on a budget you know





Lynn E. Hanover
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Old 10-26-2006, 12:00 PM
  #43  
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Breath life back into this thread!!!!!!!



I built some P-Port housings that look very similar to the pictures you posted. The motor is not complete yet, but should be done in the next couple of weeks.



What type of power band am I looking at with Intake Ports that large 10,000, 11,000 or maybe even 12,000 RPM range?



Does anyone have information on Headers recommended for this type of P-Port?



Any suggestions on what style exhaust ports to run on a P-Port this large on the intake side. I was very conservative on the exhaust ports because I did not want to push the power band too far up into the RPM range. I'll post some pictures of what I had fabricated for my "All Motor P-Port" Drag Race setup.
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Old 10-26-2006, 02:52 PM
  #44  
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Whenever I get the Dyno moved and running, I will start testing headers again. Until then, any attempts to modify my existing design are just that, guesses
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Old 10-26-2006, 03:03 PM
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I think the inlet ports are too wide.

As for the exhaust side.. I have been fabricating systems for pp race engines for some time now , we have the engine set up on a dyno and then we use a kit set of pipes to get the best length, collector length and trumpet size and length for the engine. What we have found is two identical engines ( factory pp housings ) with different intake manifolds and throtle bodies , but the same injectors and ecu's required quite different header length and megaphone length to make the same power . We tried using the same exhaust setup on both but could not get the results using the same exhaust.

Without a dyno to test various set ups its all just a good guess the exhaust will make or break a pp.
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Old 10-26-2006, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='842615' date='Oct 26 2006, 12:52 PM

Whenever I get the Dyno moved and running, I will start testing headers again. Until then, any attempts to modify my existing design are just that, guesses


Banzaitoyota,



You mean Stans design right. I ordered a header from you a year ago, and I gave you the opportunity to make it right. Here we are in October of 2006, and I still don't have the correct header you committed to replacing after I received the wrong header from you in December of 2005. Your fabricator issues are not your customers problem, so that is no excuse for not giving me what I paid for. Refund my money or replace my header with what I ordered with the correct product. No need to go on further about headers because this is off the topic of P-Port Housings.



Good Luck with your business

Albert
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Old 10-26-2006, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Nospig' post='842618' date='Oct 26 2006, 01:03 PM

I think the inlet ports are too wide.

As for the exhaust side.. I have been fabricating systems for pp race engines for some time now , we have the engine set up on a dyno and then we use a kit set of pipes to get the best length, collector length and trumpet size and length for the engine. What we have found is two identical engines ( factory pp housings ) with different intake manifolds and throtle bodies , but the same injectors and ecu's required quite different header length and megaphone length to make the same power . We tried using the same exhaust setup on both but could not get the results using the same exhaust.

Without a dyno to test various set ups its all just a good guess the exhaust will make or break a pp.


Nospig,



I appreciate the input because this is what I have been looking for. What type of racing do you run with your P-Port Applications? I like the idea about using a kit to tune the exhaust. I just ordered a bunch of piping, and u-bends so I can build a kit I can take to the track with me when I start testing the car. I here what your saying about the dyno, but I have spent lots of cash on the dyno with my turbo application, and ended up changing the entire tune up at the track. Not sure what the deal was, but everytime I dynoed the car we always ended up changing the setup when we actually tested on a 1/4 mile track.



Here is the setup we are using for this application:

-Intake 62mm Terminator similar to an IDA, but much larger

-Custom P-Port Housings

-RX8 Rotors

-Ceramic Apex Seals

-Electromotive XDI Ignition

-McCloud Twin Disc Clutch

-Modified Turbo II Trans

-Header ????? Don't know yet still working out the details. Long or Short just not sure yet.



Thanks

Albert
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Old 11-21-2006, 02:55 PM
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where did you guys buy a hole saw that will go deep enough. it has to cut almost 3" deep and the ones im fining in ACE and sears dont cut that deep.
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Old 11-21-2006, 03:18 PM
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nvm i just need to read more...
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:37 PM
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yea the hole saws you get dont go deep enough but what i do is go as deep as it will go then lower the bed on the milling machine you can then tap the first piece out it will be holding with very minimal material either side 1 small tap with a chisel an it breaks free you can then cary on down through the second piece into the housing and your done hope that makes sense.
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