Kim

Hi

As of yesterday, i finally got time to crank up the racecar.



One problem have occoured:

No oilpressure, but lots of oil flow.

Dry sump pump worked fine with the previous motor.

Im pretty sure the pressure regulator is allready installed.

Tested oilpressure with a mechanical gauge with no reading.



Throw me a friggin' bone here ...

What could I have forgot when assembling the motor?



-Kim

Lynn E. Hanover

Lots of different system lashups that could generate a no start for oil pressure, situation.



I check each fresh engine with a old belt over the pump pulley and around the chuck of a big 1/2" drill.



I take the pressure out hose loose a bit and spin the drill up (in the correct direction) until the oil leaks areound the hose fitting. I then tighten that fitting and loosen the other end of the pressure out hose at the filter housing and go again until more oil leaks at that junction. Then again with the pressure out hose from the filter housing, this assures that the filter can is full, and right on through the whole system.



By the time you get this all done, you will know that the whole system is charged with oil including the oil filter can that can cause big problems for people.



Another thing about dry sump systems is that if the oil tank is filled and then a long time lapses to start up time, the oil will seep backwards through the pump and fill up the whole engine with oil. So on start up it may take some time for the scavenge side to refill the tank before good oil pressure comes up.



So adding some oil to the scavenge out lines from the pump and turning the pump over Backwards to be sure that the scavenge side is primed is also a good idea. The ideal situation is that the entire oil supply in the tank is higher than the pump. So, the pump is mounted as low on the engine as is possible. And both sides of the pump stay primed all of the time.



I did mount a piece of crap "Weaver Brothers" pump on top of the engine in the alternator location and had to do this whole deal before every session. But I got over that and now very low on the drivers side is where the pumps go now. Also pumps with Gerotor style elements have much better primimg performance than gear type elements.



An easy test for proper assembly is to charge up a long hose with oil, plumbed to the pressure in location on the block. Assemble a pressure gage and a shrader valve (tire core valve without the guts) and connect it to the hose. Apply shop air pressure to the shrader valve. You should see the shop air pressure on the gage instantly and see it until all of the oil in the hose has all leaked past the bearings. If you see only a few pounds of pressure, and then nothing in a few seconds, something important is missing, and or, the front cover "O" ring has blown out already.



Lynn E. Hanover

Kim

Thanks a bunch, Lynn

I will try priming and add another gallon of oil to the system.

When I get to think of it, the tank is mounted lower than the pump. I moved it to clear the intake manifold. I think simple haha



-Kim Nielsen

Lynn E. Hanover

Kim,



Did you get the oil pressure fixed yet?



Lynn E. Hanover

Kim

I havent had the time to look at it yet, been working on my moms car

Will look at it tommorow.



Thanks once again, substitute mentor

Kim

Hmm

Checked everything today.

Regulator is working

Lots of oil in the tank

Plenty of oil flow, even during cranking

Tank sits above pumplevel(MFR frontcover/pump)



What else is there to check?

Im allmost certainly sure that i put in the bypass pellet before assemblying the front cover bolt.

j9fd3s

you sure its not the guage? if its got flow, doesnt it have to have some pressure?

Kim

Gauge works just fine, tested it by pulling off the wire on it. - Full reading

Also tried with compressed air in the sensor. - Variable reading.

Kim

I fixed it - DOH



Added a few liters of oil, canister was allmost empty and the pickup sits pretty high.

j9fd3s