rx_214

Sorry to hear about the radiator issue dude...


I don't quite get what you meant there with the color code, but I'll assume the red & blue are already done or parts waiting to install.

Here are my recommendations in order of priority:
- SS clutch line. Replace the Master and slave clutch cylinder if it's never been done.
- SS brake lines. There is also a Brake cylinder brace that you could consider getting. Look here: Level Zero Motorsports
- Bushings. Energy Suspension sells a master bushing kit and also individually, get every bushing except the sway bar ones, cause the Racing Beat sway bars come with their own bushings.
- Sway bar links. Order 2 of the same one from Racing Beat.
- DTSS eliminator kit. Available through Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, or Level Zero Motorports.
- Front strut bar.
- Rear camber adjuster link. Available through AWR Racing, Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, Corksport, or Banzai Racing.
- Coilover.
- Silicone radiator hoses.
- Electric fan. Make sure it's above 2300 cfm, comes with a shroud, and is big enough to cover the entire radiator.
- Radiator panel. Corksport's is made of FRP, a lot of people commented it's bad quality. S2Carbonworks sells a metal one for about the same price: 86-92 Mazda RX7 SIGNAL Auto Radiator Cooling Panel FC3S
- Oil catch can. Not needed for NA, this is for turbo engines.
- Hi-flow cat. Look here for the Bonez cat, best one out there: Rotary Performance | FC Exhaust

Exterior, interior, and the future plan list are more of personal preference, so do them when you have the spare money.

whip

First off I highly appreciate the response exactly what i was looking for thanks for the insight.

the red stuff i already have or installed the blue stuff im paying my rebuilder to provide after the rebuild as part of the cost so i could keep track of what i owe him money for and so he can remember what to grab for me.

-The radiator was a headache, but my rebuilder is trading me another one that fits better for my old one and a few extra dollars

-yea i noticed most bushing kits come with the sway bar bushings which i wouldn't need because im getting new sway bars that come with them thats why i listed just the control arms.

-oh yea and im getting my injectors rebuilt

-don't know if i have ever driven a four puck clutch he has a three puck clutch one too i think both dont have springs, whats this gonna feel like driving?

-after blowing the first motor from overheating im super all about the cooling system so those silicon hoses are gonna be in there asap as well as the electric fan, radiator panel and hood vent, i noticed from the manual some rx7s had optional electric fans as well as the clutch fan the electric being a small fan located on the opposite side. could i do that do both or would that rob some power, better off one or the other? electric for sure?

-i think as far as my priorities go im gonna take care of the engine as much as possible first, then the brake and clutch lines and cylinders, then the bushings, then some of the more expensive suspension stuff, i think i need a new wheel bearing on my front passenger wheel. its definitely helpful to figure out the cost of everything and prioritize it based on whats important to you and the vision of the car seems like. unless your rich i guess

-oh ya and i forgot the msd ignition

already have a hi-flow cat the bonez might be better not even sure what i got i can just tell its very new and not the normal cat

again thanks for the advice very helpful

whip

the radiator panel is pretty silly to pay for i could get a piece of sheet metal and make one in like an hour.

also instead of buying the atkins sleeves or pineapple inserts why couldnt you just put some epoxy in the six port sleeves and then grind them the right flow shape, would the epoxy come loose and fall into the engine? im thinking it would be fine

Lynn E. Hanover

It is not unusual to find that direct replacement just means you can probably get the hood to close over it.
Welcome aboard. You can buy a few cheap hoses of the corrct diameter and cut and fit to your application. Where you need a twist in the hose or a straight run, just cut it in two and fit a short length of the correct diameter exhaust pipe tubing.
Then you can use your prototype hose as is or, take the prototype to a dealer in blue silicone to buy the pieces you need. For longer straight lengths use aluminum tubing polished up like chrome.

Most junk yards have a core pile, where damaged engines are kept until they have a load, or the price of scrap goes up. I got my first rotary in such a yard for free. It kept rolling off of the pile and blocking a lane. From two or three core engines you can come up with a complete runner.

Most people just port the end irons, or secondary ports.
A street port is plenty for starters. The primary ports are the little ones in the center iron. Left stock this gives you nearly stock performance and some nearly stock mileage.
Plus it remains so docile that you mother can drive it and not notice a thing.

For the street port, paint up the irons with a Magic marker and scribe the path of both ends of a side seal over the port area. Move the open line to about 1/8" of the scribe line. Here you want to have both ends of the seal supported as it passes over the port. The closing line over the top is moved up to extend port open time. Stock is about 55 or 60 drgrees. Wild *** racing up to 9,500 RPM can be up to 85 dgrees. Less is more the first time around. Radius and polish the closing line to look like chrome. No wear at all on the seals. They will go almost to stock replacement time. Less the hours when you have both feet on the loud pedal. In an off the road situation with medical help standing by of course.

Do not enlarge runners. You want the highest possible runner velocity at all times. Read Bernulli.

The bowl below the port face is already too large, so just smooth and polish the outer surface to a chrome finish. Smooth the inner radius but do not polish. Install a heated O2 sensor and tune to keep full throttle show off RPM in the mid 12s.

Lynn E. Hanover

whip

thanks for the reply and very concise tips on porting,

yes I'm quickly learning what the term bolt on actually means, bolt on-ish. I already got a different radiator that fits better and will be stopping by corksport for some red silicon hoses today. Even if i could make that radiator work it gives me a bad vibe lol, i want it gone.

The engine I am rebuilding was on craigslist for $50, I drove down and he just gave it to me. even though i went through the hassle of testing(tested great) and installing it, only to find out the front water seal was bad as well as the center housing and both rotor housings, it was free and i got some experience removing and installing the engine so, oh well. which goes to show you really have to crack the keg open to have any clue whats going on in there, obviously.

Im modeling the intake (housing plate) port basically after the TII port, Im not messing with the runners, the exhaust porting is going bigger but just upward not lower than the bottom already is, sleeves removed.


I was gonna order the atkins sleeves online but noticed the atkins looked slightly different from the mazda factory sleeves, so I went over to pineapple racing and picked up his six port sleeve inserts. I recommend them over the atkins sleeves because the thing i noticed was the factory sleeves have been turned on a lathe once more near the rod part, seems like to allow for some buildup and still be able to turn well. the atkins sleeves do not have this portion. Also the pineapple inserts are only 39 dollars and come with new pins. For those of you worried if the sleeves are going to fall out and break your keg, it ain't happening. First of all as you can see in the pic ( look how shiny i cleaned them! ) there are two points where you take a peen hammer and screwdriver and make indents just in front of the insert to keep the insert from ever moving in the unlikely event that the 'loc tite' doesn't, well.... lock tightly. Also even if you didn't peen it i highly doubt that little piece of aluminum is going to come crashing through and break the pin lol, not going to happen.

after talking with rob a little bit i decided on a game plan for the suspension. Here is an updated modifications list, im going for a street/drift/stock/sleeper build that is practical for daily driving(female friendly) but can still have some serious fun at the track or on the street, stock springs maybe change to something else when i get the funds but im def getting a better front sway bar and removing the rear one as well as a front strut tower bar and getting rid of the dtss. I will adjust/upgrade the suspension as my driving experience, style and cash flow dictates.

my next step would be to start reducing weight, I will have to get creative. Any ideas on weight reduction on my vert beyond what i already have?

rx_214

Weight reduction wise can go anywhere, but since you want to keep the car relative friendly for daily driving, then you should keep most of the interior stuff together.

Couple things that you can do are:
1. Front fenders - OEM are steel ones, so change to FRP units
2. Hood - Unless you have aluminum one on, otherwise change to either FRP or CF ones
3. OEM headlight - Can change to fixed headlights to reduce some weight from the assembly and the motor
4. Single exit exhaust - weight wise is not that much less compared to dual exit, but still something to think about
5. Driveshaft - Lighten steel or aluminum units, can get them from Mazdatrix
6. Brake rotors - AWR racing offers a brake upgrade kit that reduces rotating weight by 10lbs
7. Rims - Aftermarket ones are usually lighter, but check the specs before going with specific ones
8. Seats - You're already changing the driver's side, but the passenger side could be changed too. Vert seats are heavier due to the headrest speakers.

That's pretty much all I can think of now, hopefully these help you get some directions.

whip

i have def decided to knock as much weight off as possible my plan is single exhaust, Lightweight racing FIA bucket seats will knock a good amount off seeing as i have the headrest speaker seats, fixed headlight conversion looks sexy as hell( custom fab keeping oem bumper unless i walk into a money tree and get the shine auto or re amemiya one) Braille lightweight battery, getting rid of one of my subs, ditching ac, cruise, and air pump( once i get RB header) im in love with the stock bbs wheels as they are in perfect shape, and again if i walk into a money tree ill def get lightweight ones, frp fenders would be great i cant seem to find frp fenders that are not wide body, i am going for a stock-ish look with focus on weight reduction. but anyways

I was wondering if someone maybe lynn had a picture of a nice
exhaust port (view from the outside not inside the housing)