White_FC

Okie dokie guys my rebuild is in my car and running.. initially had some timing 'issues' but they're ok now.



BUT it is WAY overfueling itself, I havn't altered the maps on the microtech and i can't see any particularly obvious electrical reason (although it might be.. will double check)



So i was thinking a stuck open injector or maybe a rooted FPR?



A bit of brief history of the engine.. ran 18psi through it due to a 'faulty' vacume hose on the wastegate actuator.. that was through 4x460cc injectors and the N/A FPR... so im not totally suprised if something is crapped out.



How common would this be though? any one here have experience with that sort of stuff?

j9fd3s

90% its prolly the map. if you had a stuck injector it should be rich on only 1 rotor (and way way rich at that)

kahren

microtech comes with the map that is very rich, are you talking about rich on idle or throughout the power band, you can turn down the idle map some, but i would do the rest on a dyno or with a wideband.

White_FC

It is WAY WAY rich, and thoughout the rev range...



The microtech was tunned before I took the engine out and I didn't touch it, i'll double check if its the same as the printed out map I printed out just after It was tuned. So I don't think its the map.......... unfortunatly..



I mean its coughing huge ammounts of smoke out the back (fuel smoke) and it feels really lumping <3,000 as if its running on one rotor.. and its insanely hard to start (ie, doesn't 99% of the time) thats what made me think stuck injector..



Since I've now got the timing dead on theres not much else I can think it would be?



Which would more commonly fail due to high boot/max duty cycle the injector or the FPR anybody know?

kahren

pull out the plugs plug them into the spark plug wire and connect groudn to teh spark plug body, make sure all plugs are firing strong, when you rebudl teh car and start it for teh first time its possible to foul out the plugs like that, especiall with all the assembly lube and fuel from all the cranking.

Ranzo

There could still be a chance that you have a vacuum leak. This would make it hard to start and run rich as well. There are many things that could cause those symptoms. I had a motor that fuel leaked from the rail and was hard to see this fuel sat ontop of the motor seaping down in pas the injector cushion causing the motor to be rich and hard to start most of the time. Using the Power FC I pulled fuel and pulled fuel until the back rotor blew.



I would pull the manifold and check everything again to ensure nothing is leaking, air or fuel.

White_FC

Hrmm.. I'm fairly sure I don't have a vac leak, if I did it would have to be _massive_ to make it run this rich... I will check again though



and Kahren, I actually had already tried that with the plugs, the leading are not firing nearly as strongly as the trailing, is this normal? I thought it was since they're wasted spark and the trailing have individual coils? if its not normal, got any idea what it might be?



That wouldn't make it this bad though would it? coughing out fuel smoke and running really roughly?



I don't think its a stuck open injector anymore, I just had the ignition on for ages and cranked it with the spark plugs out and no fuel came out (CAS unconnected obviously) and fuel would definatly come out if it was a stuck injector yeah?





I'm lost??



Just recharging the battery now so I can do some more 'testing' later..

kahren

when the plugs are removed u should deff see litle puffs of fuel and the smell of it.

if u want to unflood it keep those plugs out, and disconnect teh new fuel pump relay that u wired in or if uused a stock one and crank with plugs out and throttle fully depressed.



i u can get teh car started, take a bottle of flamable carb cleaner and start spraying aroudn teh intake manifold where u suspect for leaks. there very well can be a bunch of leaks.

j9fd3s

what else did you change? porting? injectors? nut behind the wheel?

White_FC

changed the porting.... quite a bit..



I've just leaned it out ~25%/set the timing again and it runs perfect...



But it wont hold an idle.. maybe it just needs to be broken in.. it is however about 1km(if that) old so far.. So that might be why





So would changing the porting a fair bit and an engine with not great compression attribute enough to need me to lean it out by 25%??