Cheers!

Well I blew the engine up at the very first 2006 time trial event this past sunday. Front rotor has zero pulses coming out of the spark plug hole.



132,000 original miles did not take well to me trying to run 13 psi on a safc and stock ECU at 11.7 AFR.



Looks like I also won't be competitive in my class so I'm looking at runnnig close to stock power levels to drop my classification. I want to optimize boost threshole point (reduce turbo lag) as much as possible.



Here are the engine plans:

-1990 13BT Block with new plates, new rotors, new housings (I got a mint condition jspec that was carbon locked)

-Stock S5TII with wastegate ported as big as possible

-Polish the stock intake and exhaust ports ultra smooth

-Port match all intake manifolds

-Port and polish the TB

-rx8 eshaft to futher reduce rotational weight

-rx8 stat gears

-mazdaspeed motorsports competition rotor bearings

-stock mazda 2 peice seals (all mazda OEM engine parts)



good plan? Am I going to have any issues running the rx8 exhaft? Mazdatrix mentioned that the bearing area on the eshaft was tapered?



All of this will be combined with my 8.5 lbs aluminum flywheel, spec stage 4 copper ceramic sprung clutch. Torsen LSD from FD... Hope to run 9 psi tops! with super low spool time.

j9fd3s

heres what id consider essential:



fd corner seal springs

fd oil pressure regualator

fd oil pressure spring dealie in the front cover n3a1-14-273a

fd front cover seal (its a better material) n3a1-10-507

fd rotor bearings



heres the rx8 parts i hear work better:



e shaft (its lighter, by i think half a pound?)

stat gears (they have the better fd bearings, among other things

corner seals (i hear they seal better, but i dont have details, and off the top thought they would not even fit)





with the stock turbo i notice as the engine flow goes up, boost comes on sooner but boost goes down. on my t2, the stock s5 turbo i had would run at .4bar all day with quick spool, as soon as i put the cat on it, it got laggy and it would spike to .9bar in the midrange, but it was slower too. my thinking is that the turbo kinda spins at x rpms, and flows y amount of air, if the engine doesnt flow much then boost goes up....



i'm not sure whats legal in your class, but we can run an E0 car, which limits us to a stock turbine/ehxuast manifold/intakes etc. so we'd be running a mild port (turbo is smallish, why put a huge port), pauls stillborn hybrid, 3" exhaust, prolly a water to air ic, standalone....

Cheers!

Mike,



1.) the washer type? Check.

2.) Will the stock turbo have issues with such high oil pressures?

3.) fd oil pressure spring <--- what is that? The thermal pellet?

4.) Does n3a1-10-507 replace 0820-10-605?

5.) Why not the mazdaspeed competition bearings?



Anything is legal in my class. Bascially they request that I provide them with a dyno plot showing how much peak HP i make. They dont' care when and how long I can sustain this peak. So I will trying to maximize this.



See attached image. I plan on using these parts to build my motor. These are the items recommended by mazdaspeed motorsports development

RONIN FC

I asked the same questions about the mazdacomp(speed?) bearings but couldnt find out if, or why they were better than FD. But people were having success with the FDs so I just went with them.



Never got a straight answer on the bearings.

R.P.M.

When you order the RX-8 stat gears, be sure you get the slightly more expensive ones from the higher HP Renesis motor. They have the multi window main bearings already installed. The lower HP automatic motor has just regular bearings.



Also consider using Atkins solid corner seals, I dont use the OEM ones with the rubber insert anymore.

Cheers&#33;

I was going to get these ones:



http://mazdatrix.com/b4.htm



the mazda comp bearings have the following information about them:

Rotor Bearing (competition, All thru 92) (.0005 extra clearance & deep oil groove)



rx-8 eshaft (N3H3-11-D00)

rx8 front stat gear (N3H3-10-E0YC)

rx8 rear stat gear (N3H3-10-E1YC)



For the front stat gear mazdatrix says the following:

04-on Renesis Does fit all 13B, hardened multi-window bearing, set screw retention. Bearing clearance must be checked/modified if using this with any RX-7 13B shaft.

--- which I interpret as if I use the rx8 eshaft it would fit perfect, but if I were to use my 13BT eshaft it might have a problem.

j9fd3s

the fd and high power rx8 use the same main bearing part numbers, and those were based on the competition bearings, but less money.



the low power rx8 and everything else uses the same bearings.



the fd front crank seal is the same as the earlier one, but its a different material, fc ones puke lots of oil





cheers: so you're running some sort of sliding scale weight/hp class? like TT? thats interesting. a stock, or bnr stage 1 can make a pretty flat power curve in the midrange.....

Cheers&#33;

Yup! HP versus weight. Since I have so many mods they can't classify me well so I gotta submit a horsepower plot.



Right now I'm trying to determine why the engine was surging on power / hitting flat spots and then progressing to hesitations. I can attribute these sympton to cause the terminal failure of the engine later on. I was trying to secure 3rd place for the day in my class. I was 4th only down 0.2 seconds on the saturday event. I knew I had 0.2 or more seconds left in me to trim off. So I was pushing it and trying to drive around these hesitations.



I think there must be some issue in the electronics which caused the hesitations. Some faulty wiring, some faulty sensor, something... If that is the case, i'm in suspect on the condition of 17 year old sensors which see constant heat cycling by me having high temps racing. If that is the case I may think about an E6X. Are there any good maps for a stock turbo, stock port engine? If I gotta replace the engine harness the cost will be quite high.



oh i just looked up the mazda comp prices for the bearings:



4801-11-111 - BEARING, COMPETITION ROTOR ($86.05)

N3A1-11-B11 - BEARING, ROTOR ($23.20)



Maybe running the FD ones is a good idea.

j9fd3s

i think i had a hesitation like that with my t2 (kinda stuttered at high rpms), on mine, the spark plug wires were the culprit, new wires fixed it right up.



the factory wires (need to be ordered individually) are great

the ngk's are pretty good, although short lived

the rb wires are junk, they fail super fast

the jacobs use nice wire, but the boots suck, the wires blow off

Cheers&#33;

I'm using MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire, universal kit. The crane lx92 uses a different post and I moved the coil away from where the stock one went.