my fly wheel stucked...
#1
hello. guys.
i m new to this amazing machine and even before i dismental my engine. i got problem.
i got a s5 13bt turbo block.
i took the big nut and try to get the flywheel out.but i couldnt.
i almost brake my puller and still cant.
WIth CRC derust , heat gun......even a hammar...cant get it off..
i m just a normall mechanic and sooo new to this field.
can any one help.........
also. i couldnt get the other bolt at the front of the e shaft.
OMG..am i too dumb.
i m new to this amazing machine and even before i dismental my engine. i got problem.
i got a s5 13bt turbo block.
i took the big nut and try to get the flywheel out.but i couldnt.
i almost brake my puller and still cant.
WIth CRC derust , heat gun......even a hammar...cant get it off..
i m just a normall mechanic and sooo new to this field.
can any one help.........
also. i couldnt get the other bolt at the front of the e shaft.
OMG..am i too dumb.
#2
Both the front pulley bolt and the flywheel nut require a good amount of torque to remove. My suggestion would be to take the engine to a shop and let them loosen both with an impact wrench. That service shouldn't cost more than a few bucks, and it's going to save you some time and/or a tool purchase.
#3
Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' post='902709' date='Jun 26 2008, 05:45 AM
Both the front pulley bolt and the flywheel nut require a good amount of torque to remove. My suggestion would be to take the engine to a shop and let them loosen both with an impact wrench. That service shouldn't cost more than a few bucks, and it's going to save you some time and/or a tool purchase.
The front bolt is a standard right hand thread but has a drop of Loctite (like) material on it and is very difficult to remove.
The flywheel left on until this bolt is removed is a mass help for the impact gun.
It sounds like you have removed the big nut for the Flywheel. Screw the nut back onto the crank so that the end of the crank is exposed and about 1/8" gap between the flywheel and the nut is left.
The flywheel has 6 threaded holes in it that the factory puller uses. Most times you can use a chunk of bar stock or a flywheel off some other car. Drill two holes that align with 2 of these holes. Find some metric bolts to thread into the holes through the bar stock, and tighten them up to say 60 pounds with the bar stock sitting flat on the end of the crank.
The stock puller, or the Racing Beat puller is a plate disc with all 6 holes and bolts. It can remove the flywheel or counter weight without heat in some cases.
Now with a two gas torch, heat a spot on the flywheel beside the crank. The object is to deform the tapered hole slightly, so as to release the taper. Keep checking the gap between the nut and the flywheel. When the taper lets go you will hear it.
Without the nut to keep the flywheel from jumping off of the crank the sudden appearance of a 45 pound flywheel well above the engine stand can be an unhappy surprise.
When rebuilding the engine order all of the thrust assembly. Discard the one from this engine. Prying or beating on the flywheel ruins the thrust assembly, even if it looks fine.
Lynn E. Hanover
#4
I use the puller from racing beat. I think it works great.
Atkins rotary hits the flywheel (just inside of the ring gear) with a big deadblow hammer to get the fly wheel off..
But they also sand the sides of the rotors and the irons with 200 grit sand paper..
Atkins rotary hits the flywheel (just inside of the ring gear) with a big deadblow hammer to get the fly wheel off..
But they also sand the sides of the rotors and the irons with 200 grit sand paper..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)