My First Port
#11
I would break all sharp edges around the port with 400 silicone carbide paper and solvent. No sharp edges should be left once the port job is finished.
I will port my RE housing in the next days. When you say no sharp edges, do you mean only on the opening and the closing of the port or everywhere on the port (near the oil ring) ?
Thanks
#12
Originally Posted by FD3S_wanted' date='May 21 2004, 11:13 PM
I will port my RE housing in the next days. When you say no sharp edges, do you mean only on the opening and the closing of the port or everywhere on the port (near the oil ring) ?
Thanks
Thanks
Just run some 400 wet and dry wet with solvent, at a 45 degree angle along all sharp edges. So that there is a smooth edge instead of a sharp edge.
Do the outside of turns with fine paper on a stick in a hand drill. Slower turning and easy to learn. The insides of turns with a courser paper.
Take a 3/8" wood dowel from the hardware store and saw a slot 1" deep in the end. Saw off the dowel about 7" long. Buy some belt sander belts. Tear the belts across the joint and then tear them into strips 1" wide. wind the belt around the dowel and fit it into the runner. If it is too big tear off some belt (make it shorter) and try again. Once this fits into the runner, put it in and fire up the drill. Just use medium and fine belts. They cut very fast, so be careful. The variable speed drill gives more control.
Cover the flat surfaces with a layer off Duct Tape. Expose only the area you are working on. So you don't get the school figures lines on the flats.
I polish the outsides of turns, but that would not work well on a street engine.
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Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps
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