making a new turbo manifold
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,579
From: Kissimmee FL.
ok, so i got this huge new turbo to help me get to the 1/4 mile time im looking for. it has a T6 flange and is quite heavy. i have the motor flange and T6 flange already.
i also have some left over mild steel tubing from making another turbo manifold. a much smaller lighter turbo. the wall thickness is only 1/16 (.065). my question is, is the 1/16" wall thickness tubing strong enough to hold such a large turbo? its similar to a GT42. or should i find some 1/8 inch to do this with??? or can bracing and the stress points take care of that?
i also have some left over mild steel tubing from making another turbo manifold. a much smaller lighter turbo. the wall thickness is only 1/16 (.065). my question is, is the 1/16" wall thickness tubing strong enough to hold such a large turbo? its similar to a GT42. or should i find some 1/8 inch to do this with??? or can bracing and the stress points take care of that?
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,763
From: Savannah, Ga
No it wont. I suggest using weldable pipe fittings if you want a strong mild steel manifold. Any plumbers supply should have them, or you can order them from a number of places online, including mcmaster-carr. Weld els will be what you are looking for, and they come in standard pipe sizes.
Otherwise, Id stick to stainless, because it is stronger at the elevated temperatures you are going to see with high boost on that turbo.
Otherwise, Id stick to stainless, because it is stronger at the elevated temperatures you are going to see with high boost on that turbo.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 501
From: Pelham, AL
I wouldn't recommend anything less than a .120" wall thickness for mild steel and brace it nicely. As MS7 mentioned, the most important thing to take into consideration is heat fatigue of the metal. Stainless does a much better job of expanding and contracting than mild steel over time....plus the lack of corrosion eating into the metal.
Verocious Motorsprts carries a bunch of different schedule 10 stainless pieces (different radius bends, different bend angles, etc...). This is mostly what I/my company uses when building manifolds.
Hope that helps.
Todd B.
Verocious Motorsprts carries a bunch of different schedule 10 stainless pieces (different radius bends, different bend angles, etc...). This is mostly what I/my company uses when building manifolds.
Hope that helps.
Todd B.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,579
From: Kissimmee FL.
i really like those schedule 10 pipe pieces. but i cant find any other stainless pieces to match them. and all the stainless tubing is still .065 wall. where can i get U-bends in stainless that are 1.8 inchwall?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 501
From: Pelham, AL
You're probably not going to easily find the ubends in much thicker sidewall than a .065" wall from a retailer. Why not get about 6 - 90 degree sch 10 bends and 6 - 45 degree sch 10 bends and that should be plenty.?. Some of my suppliers have the thicker wall ubends, but they are so rarely used the price is much higher. If you want to stick with mild steel, search for .120" wall bends (this is what I use if I ever use mild steel on a rotary...plus Racing Beat uses the same thickness).
You can Tig stainless tubing to a mild steel flange. On a rotary, I would only recommend .50" thick flanges due to the heat. If I had my laptop, I could show you many items that I build with mild flanges and 304 stainless tubing. I build most of these products for Evos and with over 300 sold already, they hold up fine. However, I would not build the same thing for a rotary. I would only use sch 10 304 stainless or even better, 321/347 stainless for the rotary.
This thread is beginning to sound like a matallurgy class. Maybe we should take it to PMs. Feel free to hit me up if you would like to. I do this type of work everyday.
Todd B.
You can Tig stainless tubing to a mild steel flange. On a rotary, I would only recommend .50" thick flanges due to the heat. If I had my laptop, I could show you many items that I build with mild flanges and 304 stainless tubing. I build most of these products for Evos and with over 300 sold already, they hold up fine. However, I would not build the same thing for a rotary. I would only use sch 10 304 stainless or even better, 321/347 stainless for the rotary.
This thread is beginning to sound like a matallurgy class. Maybe we should take it to PMs. Feel free to hit me up if you would like to. I do this type of work everyday.
Todd B.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,763
From: Savannah, Ga
Originally Posted by jtbshaw' post='920674' date='Apr 18 2009, 11:41 PM
You're probably not going to easily find the ubends in much thicker sidewall than a .065" wall from a retailer. Why not get about 6 - 90 degree sch 10 bends and 6 - 45 degree sch 10 bends and that should be plenty.?. Some of my suppliers have the thicker wall ubends, but they are so rarely used the price is much higher. If you want to stick with mild steel, search for .120" wall bends (this is what I use if I ever use mild steel on a rotary...plus Racing Beat uses the same thickness).
You can Tig stainless tubing to a mild steel flange. On a rotary, I would only recommend .50" thick flanges due to the heat. If I had my laptop, I could show you many items that I build with mild flanges and 304 stainless tubing. I build most of these products for Evos and with over 300 sold already, they hold up fine. However, I would not build the same thing for a rotary. I would only use sch 10 304 stainless or even better, 321/347 stainless for the rotary.
This thread is beginning to sound like a matallurgy class. Maybe we should take it to PMs. Feel free to hit me up if you would like to. I do this type of work everyday.
Todd B.
You can Tig stainless tubing to a mild steel flange. On a rotary, I would only recommend .50" thick flanges due to the heat. If I had my laptop, I could show you many items that I build with mild flanges and 304 stainless tubing. I build most of these products for Evos and with over 300 sold already, they hold up fine. However, I would not build the same thing for a rotary. I would only use sch 10 304 stainless or even better, 321/347 stainless for the rotary.
This thread is beginning to sound like a matallurgy class. Maybe we should take it to PMs. Feel free to hit me up if you would like to. I do this type of work everyday.
Todd B.
Its relevant to the topic at hand, please keep it in the thread. Secondly, Ill talk metallurgy all day... I just was trying to avoid getting excessively technical.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,535
From: VA
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' post='920679' date='Apr 19 2009, 03:13 AM
Its relevant to the topic at hand, please keep it in the thread. Secondly, Ill talk metallurgy all day... I just was trying to avoid getting excessively technical.
I concur! No need to dumb it down here. Keep it coming!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,579
From: Kissimmee FL.
the sechdule 10 seems perfect. but they do not offer any strait pieces. so, to sit the turbo directly where i want it, i'll need strait along with 90* and 45* bends. and i already had a new .50" motor flange and T6 flange machined out the other day. this machine shop guy owed me a favor for doing some welding for him.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 501
From: Pelham, AL
I've bought straight sch 10 from Verocious before.Here's a link to a 1' section of 2" OD for example: http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-b...l-Pipe-1-Length. We are setup as a wholesaler with them so i have no idea as to what prices you are viewing, but I can't imagine it being all that much...definitely less than purchasing a fabricated one.
I have had to make some difficult and serious changes to my operation lately. I have to analyze what direction I will be taking my company as of tomorrow and what markets I will be offering products and services to. The rotary community has always been there for me, since 1986 when I began working on these things, so I will be evaluating bringing some nice manifolds to the community along with other products and service. Let me know if I can help.
Todd B.
I have had to make some difficult and serious changes to my operation lately. I have to analyze what direction I will be taking my company as of tomorrow and what markets I will be offering products and services to. The rotary community has always been there for me, since 1986 when I began working on these things, so I will be evaluating bringing some nice manifolds to the community along with other products and service. Let me know if I can help.
Todd B.