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Loop Line Modification

Old May 22, 2004 | 07:49 PM
  #11  
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This mod is highly regarded in turbo charged engines. Usually when a high boost engine detonates, it breaks the end plate right underneath the oil filter mount by the dowel pin. When this happens oil is spilled into the engine bay and all over the car including back tires. This will cause an accident and goodbye race car or street car. When this mod is done, the end plate could break from detonation and the engine will not spill oil, loose oil pressure and damage the engine. Nice job Brian..
Old May 22, 2004 | 07:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='May 22 2004, 09:56 PM
Nice mod.

Anybody have any miles on this setup? And do you block the original oil galley?
Yes the original oil gallery by the dowel pins need to be plugged up to prevent a nasty oil leak incase the end plate cracks.
Old May 22, 2004 | 08:02 PM
  #13  
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Thanks again Judge Ito.



What I used, contrary to Lynn Hanover's advice, was a -6AN line instead of a -10AN line.


BDC, Why did you use -6 instead of -10? Is there a benefit to the -6?
Old May 23, 2004 | 12:50 AM
  #14  
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Makes perfect sense. What's a good way to block the dowel pin holes? Hmm, how about screwing in a bolt until it bottoms in the threads, and then chopping off the end so it's flush? The 'plugs' would block oil and still allow a dowel pin puller to thread into the other side for easy removal. Good idea?
Old May 24, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by bill shurvinton' date='May 21 2004, 02:18 PM
Had a long stare at various engines this evening and think I know what this means now. Couple of questions though.



1. You said it bypasses the banjo fitting. I can't work that one out. The only bajo I am aware of it the oil return line into the bottom of the rear iron. you still have to go through that to get filtered oil



2. Will a -6 hose flow any more oil than the dowelled gallery? Doesn't seem as if it would



3. On the top of your front iron there is a bolt of somesort (just next to the M of mazda on the first picture. I've got that one 1 of my 13Bs I just noticed. Does that enter the oil gallery and if so, wouldn't that have been a better place to put the oil feed (asking cos it could simplify the plumbing on my Dry sump setup.)



Learned a few things today so thank you.



Bill
The banjo Brian is talking about is the original oil feed for the turbo on the 13b turbos. The bolt you are seeing on top of the engine is where this banjo is located. Brian has blocked it because he's feeding the turbo with oil from the racing beat oil adapter.



--

frode
Old May 24, 2004 | 12:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rx794' date='May 22 2004, 01:08 PM
I have this done on my FD, I still have my A/C and P/S in the car. Anyone else done it with A/C and P/S in their car also?
Yes
Old May 24, 2004 | 03:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by frode' date='May 24 2004, 07:28 AM
The banjo Brian is talking about is the original oil feed for the turbo on the 13b turbos. The bolt you are seeing on top of the engine is where this banjo is located. Brian has blocked it because he's feeding the turbo with oil from the racing beat oil adapter.



--

frode
Aha. In which case why not put the new oil feed there instead of drilling into the plate. You should be able to get something in the right thread that goes on a -6 hose.

(aside, just been out to look at the block in my westfield and it has that drilling for the turbo. Its a pre-85 engine, so must have started life as a 12A turbo. Each week I find its more of a mongrel :-))
Old May 25, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='May 22 2004, 08:02 PM
BDC, Why did you use -6 instead of -10? Is there a benefit to the -6?
Anyone wanna speculate?
Old May 26, 2004 | 12:01 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='May 25 2004, 02:01 PM
Anyone wanna speculate?
Here's what I think:



the size of the oil galley in the gear seems about the right size of -6. However, the tubular dowel run seems to be the size of -10. That's the only thing I can think of.



I basically modeled mine after what Pineapple Racing does. It seems to work well from what I can tell. I didn't block the tubular dowel run, however. Maybe I will next go-around.



Lynn? Ito?



B
Old May 26, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #20  
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I don’t think it is necessary BDC, because all it is doing is creating a new path of least resistance, and increasing the pressure at that point. I think it will just aid in oil supply to the front when this mod is performed.



to make the ac plate work i milled out a slot in the acc plate and used a board out 90* fitting. And didn’t need to use any washers to move the ac compressor out to facilitate the loopline addition.

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