Lightening Of Many Parts
01-05-2005, 08:19 PM
#21
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by Node' date='Jan 5 2005, 04:15 PM
Thats awesome.
What is that class called? I've heard of it, Full Tube Chassis'd FDs w/ PPort 12as. insane
Any more info on the class or any other cool bits?
What is that class called? I've heard of it, Full Tube Chassis'd FDs w/ PPort 12as. insane
Any more info on the class or any other cool bits?
This is a bridge ported 12A in the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) Grand Touring class 3, or, GT-3. It has to weigh 2080 with driver. We need some fuel left at the end of a race to make weight.
If we run a Pport 12A we have to move up to GT-2 and run against cars with 300 to 350 HP. GT-1 is for tube frame Cameros and Mustangs. The TransAm cars on TV are SCCA GT-1 cars. If you like to feel the ground shake under your feet, stand close to a TransAm starting line.
Racing in SCCA goes on every weekend across the country. Autocross, Rally, hill climbs, and Road Racing. There are classes for nearly any car. Including Showroom Stock. There is even a class for Go Karts in Autocross.
What cool bits would you like to see?
This is Richard Sohns single rotor airplane engine, made from 12A parts. The three gizmos on the table to the left of the engine are the three models of OMP adaptors he makes (under $100.00) that fit between the stock OMP and the front case. This blocks off the original mounting pad and oil supply. You mount a supply bottle on the fender or fire wall and fill it with a real 2 cycle oil. The stock OMP then injects a clean burning top oil into the rotor housings and you can then run a true synthetic in the sump.
Lynn E. Hanover
01-07-2005, 02:40 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 119
Wow amazing thread, well i guess its the norm for this forum 
Just out of curiosity, does anyone have photo's of some of the mentioned parts. Ive seen many photo's of rotor's, but only one of an e-shaft (same one shown in this thread)
And the last is for Lenny, do you have any video of your car in action? Possibly at mid-ohio? Id love you see your car in motion
-Jacob
Just out of curiosity, does anyone have photo's of some of the mentioned parts. Ive seen many photo's of rotor's, but only one of an e-shaft (same one shown in this thread)
And the last is for Lenny, do you have any video of your car in action? Possibly at mid-ohio? Id love you see your car in motion
-Jacob
01-07-2005, 04:59 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rainy Seattle
Posts: 452
What cool bits would you like to see?
This is Richard Sohns single rotor airplane engine, made from 12A parts. The three gizmos on the table to the left of the engine are the three models of OMP adaptors he makes (under $100.00) that fit between the stock OMP and the front case. This blocks off the original mounting pad and oil supply. You mount a supply bottle on the fender or fire wall and fill it with a real 2 cycle oil. The stock OMP then injects a clean burning top oil into the rotor housings and you can then run a true synthetic in the sump.
This is Richard Sohns single rotor airplane engine, made from 12A parts. The three gizmos on the table to the left of the engine are the three models of OMP adaptors he makes (under $100.00) that fit between the stock OMP and the front case. This blocks off the original mounting pad and oil supply. You mount a supply bottle on the fender or fire wall and fill it with a real 2 cycle oil. The stock OMP then injects a clean burning top oil into the rotor housings and you can then run a true synthetic in the sump.
Other cool bits I'd like to see: More shots of your racecar please.
Reading all this cool stuff you're doing with the 12A gives me a renewed interest in it. Now I understand why my dad used to always say he liked the feel of it better than the 13b, smoother and more willing to rev higher.
Thank you Mr. Hanover for your contributions. I always enjoy reading your posts.
01-07-2005, 05:51 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 162
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jan 3 2005, 11:11 PM
We have the 5 1/4" double disc Tilton clutch setup. The flywheel is the same size as the clutch cover.
Silly question, but which flywheel and are there many issues with the starter. I would desperately like to go to a smaller flywheel, but have been hampered by not knowing how to cope with starter motor issues.
I like the single Rotor. If i can get my 13B kit car back on the road in the spring I can start on the next project which will be single rotor +turbo.
Rgds
Bill
01-07-2005, 10:36 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Originally Posted by HeffSpooled' date='Jan 7 2005, 05:59 AM
Do you have a link to these? I think they are a great idea.
Other cool bits I'd like to see: More shots of your racecar please.
Reading all this cool stuff you're doing with the 12A gives me a renewed interest in it. Now I understand why my dad used to always say he liked the feel of it better than the 13b, smoother and more willing to rev higher.
Thank you Mr. Hanover for your contributions. I always enjoy reading your posts.
Other cool bits I'd like to see: More shots of your racecar please.
Reading all this cool stuff you're doing with the 12A gives me a renewed interest in it. Now I understand why my dad used to always say he liked the feel of it better than the 13b, smoother and more willing to rev higher.
Thank you Mr. Hanover for your contributions. I always enjoy reading your posts.
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm
01-07-2005, 11:31 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Europe, Belgium
Posts: 147
Wouldn't it be nice if some1 could make a rotor wich accept 2 stationairy gears?
Then you should only take a two piece E-shaft and a front and rear side housing, then you have 2 secondary inlet ports plus that the engine will be able the rev much higher due the 2 stationairy gears...?
Am I dreaming ?
Then you should only take a two piece E-shaft and a front and rear side housing, then you have 2 secondary inlet ports plus that the engine will be able the rev much higher due the 2 stationairy gears...?
Am I dreaming ?
01-07-2005, 06:23 PM
#27
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by bill shurvinton' date='Jan 7 2005, 03:50 AM
Silly question, but which flywheel and are there many issues with the starter. I would desperately like to go to a smaller flywheel, but have been hampered by not knowing how to cope with starter motor issues.
I like the single Rotor. If i can get my 13B kit car back on the road in the spring I can start on the next project which will be single rotor +turbo.
Rgds
Bill
I like the single Rotor. If i can get my 13B kit car back on the road in the spring I can start on the next project which will be single rotor +turbo.
Rgds
Bill
Years ago I saw a lower control arm design that made so much sense to me that I just had to copy it in the RX-7. The the Royal sprots racer the rear tubes of the lower "A" arm met under the drivers knees and the rod end center lines were about 2" apart. Same at the front. So all camber change due to roll (roll steer) would be controlled by the upper lateral link. In the case of the Royal a collision and mounting failure could jam a length of 1 1/2" 4130 up the drivers patoot.
In the RX-7 this is not a factor, so that is what we have. With the trans in the way, I just mounted the rod ends as close to the trans as possible. Unfortunately that also eliminates the us of a side mounted starter. So, we use the small top mounted starter. It is lighter than the large top starter but is still heavy. I have seen one of the Tilton gear reduction starters mounted in the top location. Very light, but a bit pricy.
We have a flywheel setup from Mazda Comp. It looks like the Chevy Tilton wheel with the tabs left on and an after market ring gear bolted on. Before that we ran a Tilton 7 1/4" clutch and discs on a home made flywheel. I just bolted that over a RX-2 flex plate. Never a problem. And before that we ran a single disc clutch on a home made flywheel. With a home made spacer and a Porsche Super 90 pressure plate. Real cheap as a rebuilt. You can make a decent assembly from a VW flywheel, and just use the VW or Porsche Covers. If the cover has that center ring for the carbon bearing, just knock it off and you are good to go. Bore out the center hole to fit the land on the counterweight and drill the holes to match the flex plate. If there was a cheap way to do it, that was me.
Lynn E. Hanover
01-08-2005, 03:21 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 162
[attachment=27015:attachment]
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jan 7 2005, 04:23 PM
Years ago I saw a lower control arm design that made so much sense to me that I just had to copy it in the RX-7. The the Royal sprots racer the rear tubes of the lower "A" arm met under the drivers knees and the rod end center lines were about 2" apart. Same at the front. So all camber change due to roll (roll steer) would be controlled by the upper lateral link. In the case of the Royal a collision and mounting failure could jam a length of 1 1/2" 4130 up the drivers patoot.
In the RX-7 this is not a factor, so that is what we have. With the trans in the way, I just mounted the rod ends as close to the trans as possible. Unfortunately that also eliminates the us of a side mounted starter. So, we use the small top mounted starter. It is lighter than the large top starter but is still heavy. I have seen one of the Tilton gear reduction starters mounted in the top location. Very light, but a bit pricy.
We have a flywheel setup from Mazda Comp. It looks like the Chevy Tilton wheel with the tabs left on and an after market ring gear bolted on. Before that we ran a Tilton 7 1/4" clutch and discs on a home made flywheel. I just bolted that over a RX-2 flex plate. Never a problem. And before that we ran a single disc clutch on a home made flywheel. With a home made spacer and a Porsche Super 90 pressure plate. Real cheap as a rebuilt. You can make a decent assembly from a VW flywheel, and just use the VW or Porsche Covers. If the cover has that center ring for the carbon bearing, just knock it off and you are good to go. Bore out the center hole to fit the land on the counterweight and drill the holes to match the flex plate. If there was a cheap way to do it, that was me.
Lynn E. Hanover
In the RX-7 this is not a factor, so that is what we have. With the trans in the way, I just mounted the rod ends as close to the trans as possible. Unfortunately that also eliminates the us of a side mounted starter. So, we use the small top mounted starter. It is lighter than the large top starter but is still heavy. I have seen one of the Tilton gear reduction starters mounted in the top location. Very light, but a bit pricy.
We have a flywheel setup from Mazda Comp. It looks like the Chevy Tilton wheel with the tabs left on and an after market ring gear bolted on. Before that we ran a Tilton 7 1/4" clutch and discs on a home made flywheel. I just bolted that over a RX-2 flex plate. Never a problem. And before that we ran a single disc clutch on a home made flywheel. With a home made spacer and a Porsche Super 90 pressure plate. Real cheap as a rebuilt. You can make a decent assembly from a VW flywheel, and just use the VW or Porsche Covers. If the cover has that center ring for the carbon bearing, just knock it off and you are good to go. Bore out the center hole to fit the land on the counterweight and drill the holes to match the flex plate. If there was a cheap way to do it, that was me.
Lynn E. Hanover
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
01-08-2005, 03:51 PM
#29
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by bill shurvinton' date='Jan 8 2005, 01:21 PM
[attachment=27015:attachment]
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
01-08-2005, 04:40 PM
#30
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by bill shurvinton' date='Jan 8 2005, 01:21 PM
[attachment=27015:attachment]
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
I see. I was wondering how you attached the starter to a 5.5" ring gear. Now I see. That's an inspired way of doing it. The current flywheel isn't heavy at about 7lbs, but the stock clutch I'm using IS, so I'm looking for ways to put a lighter flywheel on, and at the same time convert to a concentric release setup so I can lose the piston for the clutch, as this is the limiting factor in engine placement right now.
I have to say Lynn you are a source of inspiration to me. Wish I wasn't 5000 miles away so I could buy you a beer or 6.
Bill
P.S. must take more pics of the purple peril... and get the clutch changed so I can drive it again
I use a Coleman coaxial release bearing. Cheap and buletproof.
Lynn E. Hanover