TweakGames

Hello all. I just blew a side seal on my s4 6 port turbo NA. 80 80 30 on the front rotor and it idles weird. Feel fine over 3000 rpm though. (weird) My car is a daily driver, but recently I have been really getting into drifting. (track drifting, no bs public road stuff). Anyways, I have a (as far as I know) running s4 NA core at home, that I took out when went to my first t2 engine. I have till christmas to decide what I am going to be doing to my core before I rebuild and install it. (yaaaa its going to suck doing it when it's so cold. )



Anyways, I would guess there are some oil mods, and port options that would be recommended for daily driver drifter. I will be rebuilding it myself, but I will most likely send out any port work to be done by a pro.



I really don't think it was the high compression NA rotors (since I Was only running 5.5 psi) that caused the side seal to blow. I think it was just the 120,000 miles on the motor.



Any opinions or recommendations would be awesome. Thanks.

RONIN FC

tHE SEAL COULD JUST BE STUCK WITH CARBON..Dam caps lock



Ive smoothed out a couple rough idling rotaries by slowly letting in some SeaFoam into the intake while running.

Some have said plain water works too, like steam cleaning. Whatever you use, dont flood it with liquid, little at a time.

TweakGames

What nipple of line would you use to get to just the front rotor? I don't want to waste seafoam on the rear rotor when nothing is wrong with it.



Thanks.

Peril 787b

in through the oil injector. Remove the oil injector (or plug if not used) and get it in through there. If you use plain water, straight in through the intake. It won't hurt the rear, if anything may increase your performance

TweakGames

hmmm I dont know what you are talking about but.....



I used the top nipple right behind my alternator. It looked like it went to my "twin scroll actuator" but I don't think it is called that. I used plane water ( only did 2 water bottles worth) and it made the cars complete rpm range much much smoother. Except for the idle. I am still missing @ idle so I'm guessing my side seal or corner seal is still blown/stuck.



Would it be a bad idea to:

take off my UIM

pour my front rotors LIM full of seafoam

take out L1 spark plug

pull the EGI fuse so the car doesn't start

crank it over a few times while filling up the LIM as it goes in

put the spark plug back in

and let it sit for the night?



Any reason why that would be bad? I would take the spark plug back out in the morning to get the sea foam out. Would suck to almost hyrdolock the rotory. :P If that is possible. Anyways Let me know. This is the only way I can really think to soak it in seafoam, maybe breaking the stuck part loose.



Thanks.

~Tweak

Peril 787b

was the engine hot when you did the water trick? It needs to be up to full temp so it acts as a steam clean.



On the housing, upper surface, by the intake manifold, is the oil injectors. They have a vacuum line running to them, and a line from the OMP. If the OMP is disabled/removed, you plug the hole with a bolt. If needing to do the water clean, I've made up a line with a banjo fitting on the end and a squirty bottle. Luckily I've only had to do it twice (old motors I couldn't be bothered rebuilding as I was in the process of building a new one)



I am unable to answer your queries about Seafoam as we don't have it (at least I've never seen or heard of it) in New Zealand. Your suggestions sound logical, but I'd crank it by hand and use and old spark plug.

RONIN FC

Try it, just keep in mind that liquid needs a place to go once you turn that motor.

You were considering replacing the motor. so you dont really have much to loose.



The motor needs to be at full operating temp.

TweakGames

Ok yaa I basically filled the front rotor with seafoam after I sucked up a whole bottle up through the nipple that goes to the pressure sensor ( I was told that only goes to the front rotor) I took off the uim and did what I said I would above. Nothing really helped.





I am going to be doing a quality rebuild. Like I said before I am tired of dealing with 100k mile motors. My plans are this. ( I think I will need to make a new thread because no one will look at this one) but anyways



Plans:



Get a rebuild kit for my origional s4 NA.

Take it apart and see how everything looks.

I am for sure no matter how well they look replacing the:

Housings

Apex seals + hard seals

All seals and springs that come in the rebuild kit



I am going to keep the higher compression rotors if they look ok, but if they look at all like there are any issues I am going to find some s4 t2 lower compression rotors.



I do not know what irons I should get. I am definitly going to do a port but I am not sure if I want brap brap or just a street port. I am going to be using it for drifting so I will need the power, but I could see a broader power curve being more helpful. Also I'm not so sure how well a rtek 2.1 could handle a bridge port compared to a nice street port.



Any opinions would be awesome.



~Thanks

Tweak

TweakGames

One more thing, do I want to go with na 6 port or 4 port irons? I was told that the 4 port gives more porting options, but I have not been able to confirm that with my research yet.

Peril 787b

4 port irons and stick with a street port. You might be able to use your existing housings, just check or chrome flaking. dependent on how much boost you plan to run will tell you if NA or t2 rotors. In my opinion, anything over 10lb should be t2