I got my big streetport motor in last night, and cranked it up today. It started up right away, and held an idle. Its running great, and I cant wait to get more miles on it. I really want wait to wind it out.



Im running a TII MAF, with TII injectors, and its working just as well as the n/a stuff. Apparently, in S5 cars, the AFM is tuned for the injectors, instead of the ECU like S4's. The TII AFM has extra range, so hopefully I wont have the problems with maxing otu the AFM I had before.

that would be pretty interesting!



looks good!

Cool, any pixs of your porting? It started w/o a push start?

When I said it cranked right up, I mean it cranked RIGHT up. It started as quickly as any well broken in rotary Ive seen has. Starts right up every time without fail. I just did a compression test, and got 85 PSI all around. Not bad for only 2 miles on the motor.



Heres the porting.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1061262811.jpg

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1063165781.jpg

Did you put the ehxuast sleeves back in?

If I remember correctly mazdaspeed7 is a fan of removing the exhaust port sleeve.

Great job! Keep us posted. YOU MUST BEAT ME TO THE DYNO.

You are correct, sir. I will never build a motor foy myself another way. I like that powerband WAY too much without the sleeves.

i think the fuel maps are the same between the t2 and na, they just put different injectors/afm/map sensor/fuel pump in it



mike

Exactly. And my motor is going to LOVE that extra range in the afm... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

it would love no AFM more https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I have base model 86 6 port and was wondering if i could do the same porting to my motor?

Looks good

It wont pass emissions, so if thats a concern, you dont want porting like mine.



Penguru, no AFM is comign soon.... But first things first.

I just finished doing it ****....hmmmm well i can work with emissions..lol ill put picks up tomorrow of the portinh so far i took the sleeves out and used a milling machine..i guessed at the port sizes but didnt break throughany walls ie water jackets.......should i grind the oil ways and water ways etc....?

While we are on the subject of rotaries being alive, I got mine finally going with no coolant leaks today. It has 24 miles on it as of right now. All I can say is damn, the thing pulls. It is hard to keep it under 4000 rpm. It's having some idling issues but those are so easy to fix compared to a pinched coolant seal!



Way to go Adam!

[QUOTE]It's having some idling issues but those are so easy to fix compared to a pinched coolant seal!



Is that what it turned out to be?

How did you finally find out?

Was it leak into both rotor housings or just one?

How did it look when you went back in there?



I ask because I think I may have a similiar problem.

whats the diff?



im deciding whether or not to use them after my port

For turbos, it makes a big difference in the spooling. It also moves the torque peak up to around 6-7K, with a very broad plateau around the peak. There was a dyno graph of one of RICE RACING's motors I saw before, ill see if I can find it. In my personal experience, it makes the powerband very smooth and progressive. Torque just builds with the revs. There is also a nice amount of HP to be gained. With my last motor, I had that exhaust port, and my 6 ports wired shut(dont ask) so I was only running on the 4 main ports, which arent very big. I easily pulled on my friends n/a with similar mods, but a stock port motor with 6 ports wired open. The drivability is great, as long as everything else is in good working order. Its less tolerant of vacuum leaks, and it will affect the idle. Its not important with a turbo, but low rpm response is reduced as well. But boost will make that a non-issue, and the boost will come on sooner with that port.

I believe he is referring to the sleeve found in N/A rotor housings only, if im not mistaken.

oh..is it na only?...

I believe he is referring to the sleeve found in N/A rotor housings only, if im not mistaken. [/quote]

NO!!! All rotaries have the sleeves in the exhaust. N/a's have the diffusers int he sleeve. I removed my sleeves. Look at the exhaust port pic again.

I believe he is referring to the sleeve found in N/A rotor housings only, if im not mistaken. [/quote]

NO!!! All rotaries have the sleeves in the exhaust. N/a's have the diffusers int he sleeve. I removed my sleeves. Look at the exhaust port pic again. [/quote]

thats what i thought



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

man. That's the kinda port I want for my soon to be 84 GSL-SE. I have an extra 88 6-port that I want to swap in. I think I'm gonna have to tear it apart and do some porting now. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

[quote=pk797' date='Oct 8 2003, 10:56 AM] Sorry I didn't reply to your question a couple weeks ago . . it's probably too late but just in case, I could tell that the coolant seal was the problem because one was ruptured completely through the teflon, exposing the inner silicone O ring, which allowed coolant and exhaust gasses to change places and go where they weren't supposed to. Two others were mildly pinched, but not through, on the inside edge. None of the seals fit well when I first put them in.



I used the "teflon encapsulated (reusable) coolant O rings", available through Rotary Aviation, Atkins Rotary, and you might be surprised to learn that my replacements came from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) and cost $45 shipped for 4. These directly sourced replacements fit MUCH more exactly than the ones Rotary Aviation sent me; I had to **** with the first set for a while to get them in (resulting in one jumping out during final assembly and getting pinched), while the Mcmaster ones fit _perfectly_ .



If anyone wants the Mcmaster part number, let me know. And they continue to seal perfectly as of three weeks and ~460 miles. My coolant tank level has been right where I left it when it was filled and had the initial bubbles burped out. And of course, no more fog machine!

I believe he is referring to the sleeve found in N/A rotor housings only, if im not mistaken. [/quote]

NO!!! All rotaries have the sleeves in the exhaust. N/a's have the diffusers int he sleeve. I removed my sleeves. Look at the exhaust port pic again. [/quote]

thats what i thought



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png [/quote]

Mazdaspeed7, how did you go about removing those sleeves? arent the press fit in?

Cool good looking out, but I think my problem maybe some epoxy that I used on one of the intake ports. I know everyone swares by the J.B. weld, but I'm starting to think thats what it is. Because everything else went in clean-no problems with any of my factory new seals-notha.. I'll find out this weekend when I take it back out. Sucks I hat taken out TII's.

I believe he is referring to the sleeve found in N/A rotor housings only, if im not mistaken. [/quote]

NO!!! All rotaries have the sleeves in the exhaust. N/a's have the diffusers int he sleeve. I removed my sleeves. Look at the exhaust port pic again. [/quote]

thats what i thought



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png [/quote]

Mazdaspeed7, how did you go about removing those sleeves? arent the press fit in? [/quote]

You have to drill out the roll pin, or otherwise get it out, and then the sleeve comes out. If can only be done with the engine apart, and its a pain in the ass at that.

Thats a beautiful porting job Mazda speed, with all the intrest you should go into buisness and port for people.



That exaust port is quite large, wha are the timmings?, and does it idle smoothly with that much overlap?

I wouldnt mind building motors for people, but Im not going to go out of my way to try to find customers. If someone comes to me asking me to build a motor, Ill do it. But Im not looking to make a living out of it.



I dont remember the specs of the exhaust port, but it does idle fine. Its not as smooth as a less ported motor, but this motor is idling at 600 rpm with the 6 ports closed, and the VDI wired on the high rpm setting. It holds a steady 600 rpm, but just not quite as smooth as a stock motor. The car is easily every bit a drivable as a stock car, possibly more.

Nice, ill consider going that large when i do my motor, i was planing on keeping stock timmings before and just opening it up a little.



and too anyone who's considering taking there sleaves out, i dont suggest a drill bit. the roll pins are very, very, very hard, i chewed up a couple drill bits on them, and some cuttign bits, the only things that worked for me are: A. dimond bits (takes forever) and B. carbide, i suggest carbide

Adam how is your progress? What mileage are you at? Compression? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Im about 10 miles away from 1000, but the compression test will probably have to wait until this weekend. I cant believe I put 600 miles on in the first 5 days, and it took me over a week to put another 300 on...



On the roll pins, I used a cobalt drill bit, and a whole lot of patience and cutting fluid.



On a side note, I need to adjust the primary throttle stop....I cant lower my idle past 1100 rpm now. It was idling at 800 on my last motor. And I feel the extra compression every time I drive it too. Its great.

woops my bad

cobalt, maybe thats where i went wrong, i used a cheep steel bits, and no cutting fluid.

Make no mistake about it, i still had a hell of a time getting the roll pins out. I need to find a better way to get them out. Ive heard of tack welding a piece of steel to them, and pulling them out that way.

what i did was drill thru the aluminum of the housing to the side of the roll pin, and then cut it with a carbide dremel bit, which still toke awhile, but it was alot better than everything else i tired.

Adam, I remember you said you got your pulley kit from Atkins.



If I'm not mistaken, that's an S6 alternator. Did you use the stock S6 pulley or use the Atkin's one?



Why is the water pump pulley a different colour?

The alternator is a S5 one. The FD pulleys are a different size. I think they have one less rib. I compared them a while ago, but I dont really remember how they didnt match up, just that they didnt. I dont know why the water pump pulley is a different color. On a site note, i had fitment issues with the wate rpump pulley on my S5 water pump. I was running a S4 water pump on my last motor, so it wsant an issue. But when I put on the S5 water pump, the hole in the center was too small, and it wouldnt go onto the water pump. I ended up putting the pulley on the lathe and enlarging the hole a little. And the alt pulley had the hole a little too big. I had to put a little tape around the shaft of the alt so the pulley wouldnt wobble. But Im still very happy with that pulley set, just wish it would underdrive the water pump and the alt, but not as much on the alt as my RB pulley set did. I had bad charging problems with the RB set, since it was underdriving my alt 35%.

Hmm.. S5 alternator casings must be the same as S6.. Learn something new everyday!



I would love those same pulleys, but in adonized (sp?) red.. I was looking at FD pulley kits, but some spin the water pump backwards, or are brutally ugly, and all cost alot of money. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png



Not to mention the fitting issues..



Maybe I'll stick with V-belt..