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i think i spend about 8 hours, 2-3 to pull it apart, about 2 to clean, 2 more to setup the rotors, and it took 2 hours to stack the thing. obivoulsy new rotors, and or new rotor housings speeds things up cause you dont have to clean em. i'm also not in a hurry either, if i took a couple more hours its not important.
fast? slow? i'm just curious https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif |
time to clearance and rebuild and engine is timeless... for some of us, is heaven..
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takes me more time than that. i think i tear them down a lot quicker than 2 to 3 hours. however, it takes me what seems like a lifetime to get them cleaned to my satisfaction. i'm not sure how much time it takes me to measure and clearance and such, and it takes me about 3-4 hours to stack it and torque everything down.
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I do a full car drive in and drive out rebuild in 1 full day of work. Process is 2 days but half gets done one day half gets done next day. Leaves room for one more half.
Remove tear down deliver parts for machine shop cleaning in a bath. Pick up next day assembly and put back in car. Assuming no special work is done and spect parts are good. |
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' post='854627' date='Jan 23 2007, 10:34 AM
time to clearance and rebuild and engine is timeless... for some of us, is heaven.. yeah, i enjoy it and take my time, it just seems to take about that long https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif |
Originally Posted by iceblue' post='854685' date='Jan 23 2007, 10:24 PM
I do a full car drive in and drive out rebuild in 1 full day of work. I would spend a fair chunk of time more than that. You know, measuring things shaft surface condition, bearing surface condition, shaft runout, shaft surfaces out of round (main and rotor), rotor bearing id's and out of round, main bearing id's/out of round, iron distortion, housing distortion, surface/resurface INCLUDING ridge removal after resurfacing, rotor groove wear, counterweight inspection, oil pump inspection, oil pump drive chain tension/replacement, verify OPR and shaft thermovalve function, retapping stud bosses ensuring proper torque, the list goes on further yet. Endplay is another big one not to be overlooked by any means. It takes a little bit more time to operate things like a dial indicator and caliper than it does to use a tape measure. Anyone can race to build an engine as fast as they can, how long it will last is another story entirely. |
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' post='854627' date='Jan 23 2007, 12:34 PM
time to clearance and rebuild and engine is timeless... for some of us, is heaven.. |
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='855083' date='Jan 26 2007, 03:42 PM
I would spend a fair chunk of time more than that. You know, measuring things shaft surface condition, bearing surface condition, shaft runout, shaft surfaces out of round (main and rotor), rotor bearing id's and out of round, main bearing id's/out of round, iron distortion, housing distortion, surface/resurface INCLUDING ridge removal after resurfacing, rotor groove wear, counterweight inspection, oil pump inspection, oil pump drive chain tension/replacement, verify OPR and shaft thermovalve function, retapping stud bosses ensuring proper torque, the list goes on further yet. Endplay is another big one not to be overlooked by any means. It takes a little bit more time to operate things like a dial indicator and caliper than it does to use a tape measure. Anyone can race to build an engine as fast as they can, how long it will last is another story entirely. A good supply of tools air and shop space works wonders. Takes me sub 2hrs to pull a motor https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif |
Feels like years here :(
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hrm... it took me 2 hours to take apart. 6 months to slowly clean parts. 2 days to order all parts from Mazdaspeed. & I'm working up the courage to keep on going to stage X, which is to clean up the cast flashing to the ports (no actual changing of port shape). Port wastegate. Stage Y paint irons. Stage Z assemble...
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