Glassman on rx7club.com sells ceramics for $995 per set of 6. Also wouldnt needle bearings wear out really quickly? How many miles do the ones in VW's get before they blow?

 

There was a fellow who joined this board who had a first gen revving 14k plus, Said he revved it to 16k-18k and sheared off the flywheel, otherwise he'd rev higher...



Posted a cool pic of a nice flamage from revving high...



Whatever happened to him?

 

I tuned a car for a friend that wasn't happy unless he was reving over 10,500rpm. He would usually take it to 11,500rpm. The motor was in the car for over a year, and was only taken out to check out the internals. It was an secondary bridged Cosmo 2 rotor motor with a T51S in an FC. Forgot to mention that this was with all stock parts, and the rotor tips clearanced. I actually reved to about 10,500 on my bridge ported FD motor, it just seemed to like it.

 

Why?



If you make peak torque at 8000 RPM and peak horsepower at 10000 RPM with a peripheral port, why would you rev to 14000?



You don't even sound like you intend to do a peripheral port. With a bridge or streetport your peak power will be at an even lower RPM.



Shift gears.



BTW, when they "seals" for a rotary engine, they're not talking about gaskets.

 

Agreed....I was just thinking about this a few minutes ago. Why the hell would you want to rev so high when peak power is reached at a much lower level. You are spending all the money for parts that are still going to break only you have nothing to show for it except for pissing your neighbors off from all the noise

 

On a slightly related topic, I'd like to get a bit more revs out of my engine given the size of the ports and turbo I'm using. It's been rebuilt, clearanced, using Cosmo plates/housings plus REW stationary gears, oil pump, etc...Not balanced with Mazda OEM bearings, Atkins 2mm seals, nothing special but everything new. Am I really pushing thigns to go to say 8500 to 9000 rpm with this setup? I've always heard there were oil system issues with the stock setup and one would need, at the very least, to run race bearings (extra deep grooves). Thoughts?

 

peak power and torque mean nothing to me much anymore.



rpm's give flexibility when going down a straight, and a corner is approaching, you can hold out in a gear longer, instead of shifting, and reshifting again as you enter the corner.

 

That's right, but you're wanting to go 40% past your peak HP RPM. That's about one full gear ratio. You screwed up the corner, you're in the wrong gear. If you only go with a street port, you are wasting your time. Your power peak will be somewhere around 7500 RPM with a BIG port. At 14,000 RPM you will have nothing left.



The Yamaha R6 came out with a 15,500 RPM redline with a 12,500 RPM HP peak. Less than 25% rev past, the next gear might be too tall. Here it is more useful.

 

one day while driving my stock 84(junk, 190,000 miles) the throttle stuck and it

maxed out the tach and kept on going with no problems