Jeff20B

The rear apex seals were down to 6.5mm and one of the fronts (that I could remove from the rotor) measured 6.3mm. Spec is 7mm. It was just a matter of time. Also, the front rotor is rather dry. The rear has a light coat of oil mixed in with the carbon. I think the front oil injector in the rotor housing may not have been flowing correctly.



More bad news. A previous owner used some radiator stopleak and it collected at the water ports and corroded the aluminum. I think one of the coolant seals may be compromised because of this. I'm with banzai on this one. Don't use radiator stopleak!



j9fd3s, could you take a look at the counterweight and tell me which rotors it was supposed to come with? Maybe it's correct for GSL-SE, but it sure looks different from all the 1757 counterweights I've ever seen.

j9fd3s

i cant tell em apart by eye, they all look the same enough

RONIN FC

Call Mazdatrix, ask them to weigh one for you. Then go to your local deli and commandeer their scale.

j9fd3s

you sure its a factory engine? maybe a mazda reman? i remember when delco took over the mana motors in 02ish that they just threw all the cw's and flywheels in the same bins, it took a few warranty engines to figure that one out

Jeff20B

I'm pretty sure it's never been opened. That means the front counterweight is probably correct. Either way, I'm going to take it and my spare 1757 counterweight down to Atkins along with the remaning rotor and a known correct rear counterweight (purchased from Mazdatrix http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-751A-1029 a few years ago) and have them balanced together for a single rotor project!



I've actually wanted to do a single rotor for a long time now. I just hadn't had an opportunity like this yet.



Interestingly enough, the GSL-SE intermediate plate and front cover had to go to a multirotor project, and I have three good apex seals at around 7.7mm each. Plus the side plates had very little step wear. I have everything I need except for the short shaft, tension bolts, and oil pan.



Since the plates are from a GSL-SE, what if I used a 12A Nikki and flowed the carb primaries into the main ports and the secondaries through the aux ports? I think I'll street port the aux ports and install some Pineapple sleeves for a smoother transition, leaving them open all the time and relying on the secondary butterflies to prevent flow at low RPM. Thoughts?

BeaterRX7

Bridgeport the secondaries and put it in a kart chassis.

Jeff20B

Get short.