fresh motor starrt up
#1
i just rebuilt my motor with the ra super seals and the car wont start its right there ready to go but just wont catch is this normal and also was thinkin to just push start and let it run for a little while to kind of break it in
#2
Originally Posted by drewrey2004' post='881624' date='Aug 29 2007, 06:27 PM
i just rebuilt my motor with the ra super seals and the car wont start its right there ready to go but just wont catch is this normal and also was thinkin to just push start and let it run for a little while to kind of break it in
The start up should go as you describe. A little compression, some fuel vapor and a spark at the right time and off it goes.
Put a timing light on it and check for the right time. Check the plugs for flooded/shorted. Put in dry plugs, and a long squirt of WD-40 into each housing to seal things up good and a spritz of fuel from an oil can and it should fire right up. Do all of this outside with fire suppression equipment at the ready and manned.
If you have met the requirements, the engine cannot refuse to start.
I had a junk yard engine in an RX-2 years ago. We either had to tow it to start it or pour in motor oil in each housing, then 1/2 cup of hot coffee, (it was winter time) and a big dose of fuel, and it would start right up, with a big white cloud of smoke. It ran fine and would restart once it got hot.
Lynn E. Hanover
#4
motor started right up lynn worked like a charm but has a problem starting up after that i have to keep adding a lil oil to start her up. maybe she needs to be broken in a little bit she warmed right up but still has little bit of trouble starting not too worried about it
#6
Resurecting an older thread...
I have the same issue with my freshly rebuilt engine not starting without dumping oil down the carb. After starting, running a little, and shutting down, it still needs to be tricked into starting. It tests at 30-40 psi compression (with a standard test gage). Is this normal and I just need to run it more to break it in or is there a problem?
The rebuild included all of the usual, new seals properly clearanced, lapped housings, etc.
I have the same issue with my freshly rebuilt engine not starting without dumping oil down the carb. After starting, running a little, and shutting down, it still needs to be tricked into starting. It tests at 30-40 psi compression (with a standard test gage). Is this normal and I just need to run it more to break it in or is there a problem?
The rebuild included all of the usual, new seals properly clearanced, lapped housings, etc.
#7
Originally Posted by REMSPORT' post='898572' date='Apr 14 2008, 07:02 AM
Resurecting an older thread...
I have the same issue with my freshly rebuilt engine not starting without dumping oil down the carb. After starting, running a little, and shutting down, it still needs to be tricked into starting. It tests at 30-40 psi compression (with a standard test gage). Is this normal and I just need to run it more to break it in or is there a problem?
The rebuild included all of the usual, new seals properly clearanced, lapped housings, etc.
I have the same issue with my freshly rebuilt engine not starting without dumping oil down the carb. After starting, running a little, and shutting down, it still needs to be tricked into starting. It tests at 30-40 psi compression (with a standard test gage). Is this normal and I just need to run it more to break it in or is there a problem?
The rebuild included all of the usual, new seals properly clearanced, lapped housings, etc.
It is difficult to imagine compression that low on a fresh engine. Even with some late closing intake ports it should be closer to 100 PSI cranking. If the ports are stock, closer to 120 to 140 pounds, and very easy starting. Be sure to have the throttle cracked a good amount for a few turns to get some heat into the chamber.
Compression readings using the normal piston engine gage, should be done with the Shrader valve removed from the gage so that all of the faces can be seen. Otherwise you just record the highest compression face, and cannot see the others.
The needle with just flick up as each face comes into compression. Compression checks are done with the throttle wide open, and the ignition disabled.
With the trans in neutral, and one plug from each housing removed, you should be able to turn the engine over with one hand. You can loosen the belts and check crank end play, to be sure nothing has gone wrong there.
So, if it starts OK with a squirt of oil, it is cranking too slow, and, or, it has too little compression. too much side seal clearance, Badly worn housings or whatever. But the oil seals it up good for a few revolutions, and covers the problem, and she starts. Shine up all of the battery connections and even the wire to the starter. The grounding on the starter as well. Remove and clean up the mounting bolts, and replace them with a common lock washer for a real good ground.
The next step is remove the engine and recheck everything internally. Sorry..............Free movement of corner and side seals, and so on.
Lynn E. Hanover
Picture is the Guppy, my Camel lights car from 100 years ago. Rotary powered of course.
#10
Originally Posted by REMSPORT' post='898958' date='Apr 20 2008, 06:39 PM
I have a 2nd gage for just this reason. Motor's out of the car now. We'll see.
You've got too many worn out parts. Get new rotor housings, and all new seals. Of course make sure you clearance everything properly.