First Porting Attempt....Hope it is ok..Take a look
05-14-2006, 04:11 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 42
Well,
After Many years of only having stock ports...I decided to give porting a try. I am rebuilding a 94 FD and I hope that the porting I am doing is ok. I am concerned about a couple of things and want some advice. I hope some of you gurus out there will take a look and give some honest feedback.
I am attaching some pics in this thread...hoping to see if I did this porting ok...
Also...for a streetport....is it necessary to do the primary ports, secondary ports, AND the exhaust all together? Is that the norm? OR just intake with no exhaust porting, OR just secondary ports and not the primary. I only have the single size RB template...
I am worried about the oil control ring path....have I gone too far into it? I slipped with the big carbide cutter and was pretty upset. I cleaned it up, but take a look...
Also, I think the port is a bit "fat"...and a little too far down...doesn't match the template exactly...
The template didn't even line up with the stock port though! Anyone else had that happen with the RB streetport? Weird...
Well, before I write a book...take a look and some constructive critisism is ok...just keep in mind that I have NEVER ported anything before this.....
[attachment=38144:attachment]
[attachment=38145:attachment]
[attachment=38146:attachment]
[attachment=38147:attachment]
[attachment=38148:attachment]
After Many years of only having stock ports...I decided to give porting a try. I am rebuilding a 94 FD and I hope that the porting I am doing is ok. I am concerned about a couple of things and want some advice. I hope some of you gurus out there will take a look and give some honest feedback.
I am attaching some pics in this thread...hoping to see if I did this porting ok...
Also...for a streetport....is it necessary to do the primary ports, secondary ports, AND the exhaust all together? Is that the norm? OR just intake with no exhaust porting, OR just secondary ports and not the primary. I only have the single size RB template...
I am worried about the oil control ring path....have I gone too far into it? I slipped with the big carbide cutter and was pretty upset. I cleaned it up, but take a look...
Also, I think the port is a bit "fat"...and a little too far down...doesn't match the template exactly...
The template didn't even line up with the stock port though! Anyone else had that happen with the RB streetport? Weird...
Well, before I write a book...take a look and some constructive critisism is ok...just keep in mind that I have NEVER ported anything before this.....
[attachment=38144:attachment]
[attachment=38145:attachment]
[attachment=38146:attachment]
[attachment=38147:attachment]
[attachment=38148:attachment]
05-14-2006, 04:14 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 42
Some more pictures...of the Front Iron porting...using a RB template....
[attachment=38149:attachment]
[attachment=38150:attachment]
[attachment=38151:attachment]
[attachment=38152:attachment]
[attachment=38153:attachment]
[attachment=38149:attachment]
[attachment=38150:attachment]
[attachment=38151:attachment]
[attachment=38152:attachment]
[attachment=38153:attachment]
05-14-2006, 04:17 PM
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 42
Any of you porting experts see any problems with this porting? I am in the middle of this rebuild of my 94 and need to know so I can continue the building process...
I am worried about the outside of the port being too fat and causing too much port timing...and being early opening...and secondly...the oil control o-ring path....I am into in a bit...and I am wondering if it will smoke or be unreliable?
Anyone think this is unusable? I hope not...I have done a ton of searching and reading and purchased the proper tools....but gotta start learning somewhere....I just hope I didn't trash my irons...
Any advice or comments would be appreciated..
Thanks,
Greg
I am worried about the outside of the port being too fat and causing too much port timing...and being early opening...and secondly...the oil control o-ring path....I am into in a bit...and I am wondering if it will smoke or be unreliable?
Anyone think this is unusable? I hope not...I have done a ton of searching and reading and purchased the proper tools....but gotta start learning somewhere....I just hope I didn't trash my irons...
Any advice or comments would be appreciated..
Thanks,
Greg
05-14-2006, 06:12 PM
#4
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Posts: 42
Any porting gurus on here today!? Please help!....
I am worried that I removed TOO much material....not sure though...please check out the pics and post some helpful info..or send me an email....
mazdaland@***.net
I am worried that I removed TOO much material....not sure though...please check out the pics and post some helpful info..or send me an email....
mazdaland@***.net
05-14-2006, 06:33 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston Ma.
Posts: 1,420
Not an expert, but looks like your out of the seal tracks.
Hard to get a real look at the port in relation to the plate in those pics.
You dont really HAVE to port your exhaust, but atleast smooth it into the sleeve a little better.
Hard to get a real look at the port in relation to the plate in those pics.
You dont really HAVE to port your exhaust, but atleast smooth it into the sleeve a little better.
05-14-2006, 07:28 PM
#6
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Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
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Originally Posted by gorockrx' post='819158' date='May 14 2006, 01:17 PM
Any of you porting experts see any problems with this porting? I am in the middle of this rebuild of my 94 and need to know so I can continue the building process...
I am worried about the outside of the port being too fat and causing too much port timing...and being early opening...and secondly...the oil control o-ring path....I am into in a bit...and I am wondering if it will smoke or be unreliable?
Anyone think this is unusable? I hope not...I have done a ton of searching and reading and purchased the proper tools....but gotta start learning somewhere....I just hope I didn't trash my irons...
Any advice or comments would be appreciated..
Thanks,
Greg
It is the sealing lip of the outer oil scraper that determies where the port must stop. Even then, some of the E production engines are ported to include part of the outer scraper path. It just smokes a bit.
So, it is unlikely that the iron is ruined. If you have moved the open line at all, it is likely that the trailing end of the side seal will be unsupported while crossing the port. I radius and polish the closing line to reduce side seal wear. You can check the end plates with a marking pen like a sharpie. Black out an area along the open side. Install the stationary gear. Install the rotor with a corner seal and no spring. Install a side seal with one end bent so it drags along the iron right beside the corner seal. Turn the crank, and the side seal end will scribe a track through the marking pen dye. Do that from both sides of the corner seal and you will have the actual tracks of the side seal ends marked out plain as day.
Lynn E. Hanover
05-14-2006, 07:50 PM
#7
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Posts: 42
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='819175' date='May 14 2006, 04:28 PM
It is the sealing lip of the outer oil scraper that determies where the port must stop. Even then, some of the E production engines are ported to include part of the outer scraper path. It just smokes a bit.
So, it is unlikely that the iron is ruined. If you have moved the open line at all, it is likely that the trailing end of the side seal will be unsupported while crossing the port. I radius and polish the closing line to reduce side seal wear. You can check the end plates with a marking pen like a sharpie. Black out an area along the open side. Install the stationary gear. Install the rotor with a corner seal and no spring. Install a side seal with one end bent so it drags along the iron right beside the corner seal. Turn the crank, and the side seal end will scribe a track through the marking pen dye. Do that from both sides of the corner seal and you will have the actual tracks of the side seal ends marked out plain as day.
Lynn E. Hanover
Thanks for the reply...I was hoping you would see this thread...
Anyway, I understand about the side seal and that is why I attempted the radius...but....I just ended up taking off too much I think....hard to tell from the pictures I know...
I am running out of time to get this car running...so I may just sell the irons and get stockers...I am in the middle of trying to decide. These irons have less than 1/1000th of step wear and are in pretty good shape, so I would hate it if they are not useable because of my screw up....
I will try what you suggested, but please tell me if my attempted radius is any good or not...check out the pictures above. IF I need too, I will take a closer shot of it...
05-14-2006, 08:37 PM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='819175' date='May 14 2006, 04:28 PM
It is the sealing lip of the outer oil scraper that determies where the port must stop. Even then, some of the E production engines are ported to include part of the outer scraper path. It just smokes a bit.
So, it is unlikely that the iron is ruined. If you have moved the open line at all, it is likely that the trailing end of the side seal will be unsupported while crossing the port. I radius and polish the closing line to reduce side seal wear. You can check the end plates with a marking pen like a sharpie. Black out an area along the open side. Install the stationary gear. Install the rotor with a corner seal and no spring. Install a side seal with one end bent so it drags along the iron right beside the corner seal. Turn the crank, and the side seal end will scribe a track through the marking pen dye. Do that from both sides of the corner seal and you will have the actual tracks of the side seal ends marked out plain as day.
Lynn E. Hanover
Does this closing look ok, or does it need to be extended more in order to do a more shallow radius? I am using a Racing Beat template, but it didn't align with the port correctly and I took more off the outside than what I wanted to. That was the part I was worried about...
I just finished it out anyway, and it is pretty close to the template, but I can feel an edge with the template installed on top, so I am extended farther out than the template...
I am also father down (Opening earlier) than the template...is that normal? It just doesn't seem to line up well...
Also, important! I have an automatic in this 94 (first auto FD) and I was wondering if it would be better to leave the primary ports stock? OR maybe just polish only and take a small amount off toward the top of the port?
Radius any good? OR too steep?:
[attachment=38154:attachment]
and another view:
[attachment=38155:attachment]
05-14-2006, 10:02 PM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 42
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='819175' date='May 14 2006, 04:28 PM
It is the sealing lip of the outer oil scraper that determies where the port must stop. Even then, some of the E production engines are ported to include part of the outer scraper path. It just smokes a bit.
So, it is unlikely that the iron is ruined. If you have moved the open line at all, it is likely that the trailing end of the side seal will be unsupported while crossing the port. I radius and polish the closing line to reduce side seal wear. You can check the end plates with a marking pen like a sharpie. Black out an area along the open side. Install the stationary gear. Install the rotor with a corner seal and no spring. Install a side seal with one end bent so it drags along the iron right beside the corner seal. Turn the crank, and the side seal end will scribe a track through the marking pen dye. Do that from both sides of the corner seal and you will have the actual tracks of the side seal ends marked out plain as day.
Lynn E. Hanover
OK, Here is a picture after trying what you suggested...
[attachment=38158:attachment]
There is a very small bit of support all the way around....
The oil control rings wiped the surface clean though......you can see the path of everything except the corner since I didn't put springs in...but I did put a spring on the side seal to get a good wipe....
Hard to hold on the gear and turn it around without falling out of the gear...when doing that by hand..
What do you think of what you see there?