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What happening guys,
I just pulled the engine out today and disassembled the core. My car had low compression for a while now. I found that my needle bearings and thrust washer are worn. Also found my oil pump and chain needs to be replaced. Oil pump is grooved probably from the needle bearings metal. Rotor housings look decent. I just need second opinions. Found some pitting on the rear rotor. I don't know if I should replace the rotor or not. Only good news were that my rotors are basicly spot free. I've been premixing for a year now and did one waterinjection treatment about six months ago. There was no carbon on the rotors. Honest Opinions Welcome! |
more pics
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more
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I'm having a friend bring the parts to his work to get it parts washer and cleaned. Then I'll do the final inspection. So far, How does it look?
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How many miles on it?
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145k
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What is that on the bottom right hand corner of the front side housing?
To me it looks like the Inner coolant seal landing is open. Thats just how it looks from the pictures. I hope I am wrong. |
Originally Posted by ArmyOfOne' post='780896' date='Nov 23 2005, 12:42 AM
What is that on the bottom right hand corner of the front side housing? To me it looks like the Inner coolant seal landing is open. Thats just how it looks from the pictures. I hope I am wrong. if you're talking about the housing on the far left corner, that is just the lighting. the coolant seal groove appears to be in good shape |
Parts are coming in tomorrow. I will update as soon as I get them. Mazda Parts are expensive.
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housings look ok to me. its a mazda though so step one is to look at the thing, if it looks good then you can feel for warpage/imperfections etc, if its still good its good, if you really wanted to buy new parts then you can measure it with tools.....
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='782013' date='Nov 28 2005, 10:14 AM
housings look ok to me. its a mazda though so step one is to look at the thing, if it looks good then you can feel for warpage/imperfections etc, if its still good its good, if you really wanted to buy new parts then you can measure it with tools..... Well, The side housings I felt some wear. I've gave it to my friend to clean for me at his work. He works at a engine shop. I still haven't seen it yet. He said I might have to lap my housings but I haven't had a chance to really inspect the wear. Hopefully, He'll be done soon. My Mazdatrix bill is 2000. I bought all new seals, springs, oil pump, trust bearings etc.. I should have just bought a reman. This is my first rebuild. Any tips? |
Originally Posted by tomsGTR' post='782218' date='Nov 28 2005, 11:36 PM
Well, The side housings I felt some wear. I've gave it to my friend to clean for me at his work. He works at a engine shop. I still haven't seen it yet. He said I might have to lap my housings but I haven't had a chance to really inspect the wear. Hopefully, He'll be done soon. My Mazdatrix bill is 2000. I bought all new seals, springs, oil pump, trust bearings etc.. I should have just bought a reman. This is my first rebuild. Any tips? well its all dumb stuff. but here's a couple of gotcha's assemble both rotors (all the seals etc) first, take your time, make sure everything is clean, all the seals are clearanced etc. then set em aside. if you've never done one before, mabye mock up assembly once or twice, putting the center iron on is tricky (especially if you're doing it alone). bascially if you have the rotors built and the irons all ready to go, assembling the "keg" takes about 45minutes. key is just to make sure you're not rushed |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='782277' date='Nov 29 2005, 09:41 AM
well its all dumb stuff. but here's a couple of gotcha's assemble both rotors (all the seals etc) first, take your time, make sure everything is clean, all the seals are clearanced etc. then set em aside. if you've never done one before, mabye mock up assembly once or twice, putting the center iron on is tricky (especially if you're doing it alone). bascially if you have the rotors built and the irons all ready to go, assembling the "keg" takes about 45minutes. key is just to make sure you're not rushed I've watched the video like 4 times and reviewed the FSM several times. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Hopefully all goes well. |
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please let Cindy out of the box
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='782611' date='Nov 30 2005, 11:51 AM
please let Cindy out of the box ?? huh? |
Originally Posted by tomsGTR' post='782218' date='Nov 28 2005, 11:36 PM
Well, The side housings I felt some wear. I've gave it to my friend to clean for me at his work. He works at a engine shop. I still haven't seen it yet. He said I might have to lap my housings but I haven't had a chance to really inspect the wear. Hopefully, He'll be done soon. My Mazdatrix bill is 2000. I bought all new seals, springs, oil pump, trust bearings etc.. I should have just bought a reman. This is my first rebuild. Any tips? Mark both sides of both rotors with arrows showing direction of rotaion, and front rotor / rear rotor. This helps keep my mind straight on installing the oil scraper springs on the correct sides. There is a front set and a rear set. The new ones have colored paint dots to identify them. Lynn E. Hanover |
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='782828' date='Dec 1 2005, 04:02 AM
Mark both sides of both rotors with arrows showing direction of rotaion, and front rotor / rear rotor. This helps keep my mind straight on installing the oil scraper springs on the correct sides. There is a front set and a rear set. The new ones have colored paint dots to identify them. Lynn E. Hanover Thanks. Turns out I need a front side housing. It appears to have lost a half an inch of support for the outer water seal. Anyone has one for sale? |
Lemme Check
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its around $300 new....
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='782611' date='Nov 30 2005, 02:51 PM
please let Cindy out of the box LMAO! (hes talking about your box in the bottom picture thats labeled "cindy") kevin. |
ROFL. Now I get it. I didn't even notice it. That's not even my box. LOL.
What a laugh. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='783233' date='Dec 2 2005, 01:07 PM
its around $300 new.... I know I called the dealer and check mazdatrix. I'm trying to find a used one. |
progress pics...
rotors with new bearings pressed in and side seals clearanced and new rotor oil seals with mazda o-rings http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0402.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0403.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0404.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0405.JPG |
vasoline works great for keeping thoes seals in.
its going to be funny when you pull the tape off https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
I actually have vasoline sitting on that table https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
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I use ARP assembly lube to stick the side seals and corner seals in place, then a nice big rubberband to hold the apex seals to the rotor. This works remarkably well for longish periods of time.
After popping the rotor on, the rotor housing slides over the rotor with only a little bit of work. The rubber band gets cut at a rotor dish with a boxcutter, and generally smacks me in the belly. A nice idea that doesn't work too well in the real world is to angle the eccentric shaft into the center housing first, and then lay them both in. It becomes a real trick to line up the two bearing surfaces while you're holding the side housing with one hand, enough so that the accepted method of holding the E-shaft up with one knee while finessing the center housing over it is actually easier. I just realized, the eccentric shaft could be stabilized in the center housing if the second rotor were to be installed on it first. I just might try this on my next engine build. |
Originally Posted by heretic' post='785896' date='Dec 12 2005, 05:55 PM
I use ARP assembly lube to stick the side seals and corner seals in place, then a nice big rubberband to hold the apex seals to the rotor. This works remarkably well for longish periods of time. After popping the rotor on, the rotor housing slides over the rotor with only a little bit of work. The rubber band gets cut at a rotor dish with a boxcutter, and generally smacks me in the belly. A nice idea that doesn't work too well in the real world is to angle the eccentric shaft into the center housing first, and then lay them both in. It becomes a real trick to line up the two bearing surfaces while you're holding the side housing with one hand, enough so that the accepted method of holding the E-shaft up with one knee while finessing the center housing over it is actually easier. I just realized, the eccentric shaft could be stabilized in the center housing if the second rotor were to be installed on it first. I just might try this on my next engine build. yeah lol assemble the front of the center housing.... |
got a used front housing and sent the other two to racing beat to get lapped. i'll update pictures when i get them.
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more goodies
http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0440.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0439.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~tomsgtr/IMG_0438.JPG exedy street clutch hks t04e .60 1.15 - i might have to street port for that exhaust side. u guys think 550-720 rtek 1.7 would do for now? only planning on running 10psi right now. |
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that clutch won't hold the power from a T04E
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really? why so? what clutch would you recommend?
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first time porting ..
i just did a rough cut of how its going to be. i consider this a mild street port. let me know what you guys think. I didn't use a tempalate. Please ANY SUGGESTIONS? TIPS? i didn't do the runners yet i went up more than down. i just followed the oil seal lines |
that clutch is only meant for cars around 250 HP or so... your T04E will probably make way more than that
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='789807' date='Dec 24 2005, 06:21 PM
that clutch is only meant for cars around 250 HP or so... your T04E will probably make way more than that I figured I wasn't making that much. I order the clutch before I got the turbo. I guess I have to return it. What would you recommend? This is going to be my daily driver. |
port cleaned up
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update pics
just got done putting the engine together. in the process of getting a new spacer. there is no endplay with the K spacer. |
Originally Posted by tomsGTR' post='800425' date='Feb 9 2006, 01:16 AM
update pics just got done putting the engine together. in the process of getting a new spacer. there is no endplay with the K spacer. You should have extra play since you lapped the irons. Brent |
Originally Posted by tomsGTR' post='789817' date='Dec 24 2005, 10:48 PM
I figured I wasn't making that much. I order the clutch before I got the turbo. I guess I have to return it. What would you recommend? This is going to be my daily driver. exedy hyper single https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif |
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