When putting block back together, does everyone do everything as factory specs require, or is there some difference some people do, like tighten the tension bolts a little tighter or at what inside temp do they build there motor, lets say for a street drag motor?

... what inside temp they build their motor?



Like, the temperature of the room you're working in?



Ideally, something comfortable.



-=Russ=-

well i guess not room temp, but the temps of the plates. yes, though it sounds funny, but i play as everything is a factor when coming to accuracy, as that things expand and contract according to the temp. You see i figure that once your building a higher performance motor then the one that came with the car, i figure that spec would change a little. atleast thats what i do somewhat on piston motors, but we dont want to here about those on this forum...lol.



This would be my first rotary motor build but not my first motor build, and im looking to make 600 hp and im wondering if the specs may or could be changed a little do to higher pressure is involved in the motor?

ambient temp is not really importtant unless you are building a 19,000 rpm F1 motor, honest. Usually normal room temp (68-74 F) is fine. Especially the irons, they wont move until about 180 F, the alloy housing start to move at about 100 F

ok well as far as that goes how about the tension bolts, do you guys over tighten a little more then stock specs, because now we are dealing with more i guess you would say cylinder pressure, because i will be running over 30 psi on this motor

if you follow oem torque specs, in my opinion you would run into less chances of something not working together right as if you started putting your own 'ideas' into action...

torque specs interest me as well

lower tq for the added growth due to higher temps?

or higher tq for higher overall tension?

i go to the middle of the spec, who knows how accurate the torque wrench is

always remember to store your torque wrench with the dial at 0 pounds.. so it is not preloaded.. or whatever your specific manufacturer recommends.

see i go over a little factory specs when im putting on a head on a piston motor that is making more then half its factory hp, for example i worked on a 2jz motor that was making over 1000 hp and he alwasy blew a gasket, so the next time i tighten the head a little more but not drastically he didnt get that problem even when he maxed out the 5 bar map sensor, when he spiked the gastget was good but the cylinder wall cracked. I was just thinking if this would come to play in a rotary motor too?