When putting block back together, does everyone do everything as factory specs require, or is there some difference some people do, like tighten the tension bolts a little tighter or at what inside temp do they build there motor, lets say for a street drag motor?

... what inside temp they build their motor?



Like, the temperature of the room you're working in?



Ideally, something comfortable.



-=Russ=-

well i guess not room temp, but the temps of the plates. yes, though it sounds funny, but i play as everything is a factor when coming to accuracy, as that things expand and contract according to the temp. You see i figure that once your building a higher performance motor then the one that came with the car, i figure that spec would change a little. atleast thats what i do somewhat on piston motors, but we dont want to here about those on this forum...lol.



This would be my first rotary motor build but not my first motor build, and im looking to make 600 hp and im wondering if the specs may or could be changed a little do to higher pressure is involved in the motor?

ambient temp is not really importtant unless you are building a 19,000 rpm F1 motor, honest. Usually normal room temp (68-74 F) is fine. Especially the irons, they wont move until about 180 F, the alloy housing start to move at about 100 F

ok well as far as that goes how about the tension bolts, do you guys over tighten a little more then stock specs, because now we are dealing with more i guess you would say cylinder pressure, because i will be running over 30 psi on this motor

if you follow oem torque specs, in my opinion you would run into less chances of something not working together right as if you started putting your own 'ideas' into action...

torque specs interest me as well

lower tq for the added growth due to higher temps?

or higher tq for higher overall tension?

i go to the middle of the spec, who knows how accurate the torque wrench is

always remember to store your torque wrench with the dial at 0 pounds.. so it is not preloaded.. or whatever your specific manufacturer recommends.

see i go over a little factory specs when im putting on a head on a piston motor that is making more then half its factory hp, for example i worked on a 2jz motor that was making over 1000 hp and he alwasy blew a gasket, so the next time i tighten the head a little more but not drastically he didnt get that problem even when he maxed out the 5 bar map sensor, when he spiked the gastget was good but the cylinder wall cracked. I was just thinking if this would come to play in a rotary motor too?

[quote name='T88rx7' date='Jun 25 2005, 10:45 PM']see i go over a little factory specs when im putting on a head on a piston motor that is making more then half its factory hp, for example i worked on a 2jz motor that was making over 1000 hp and he alwasy blew a gasket, so the next time i tighten the head a little more but not drastically he didnt get that problem even when he maxed out the 5 bar map sensor, when he spiked the gastget was good but the cylinder wall cracked. I was just thinking if this would come to play in a rotary motor too?


[/quote]



so what are you trying to fix by running tighter/looser? it might be better to use the factory spec, than to do something different and cause a different problem?



my friend goes up to 30lbs if the motor is gonna make a bunch of power (300-400hp), or its got shitty housings, he hasnt had any problems.

[quote name='Old Splatterhand' date='Jun 25 2005, 06:16 PM']torque specs interest me as well

lower tq for the added growth due to higher temps?

or higher tq for higher overall tension?


[/quote]



The bolts are heated along with the rest of the engine, right?



Don't store your tension bolts in the oven with your housing in the freezer and the factory specs should always apply (with reason).

[quote name='Shotgun' date='Jun 27 2005, 12:38 PM']The bolts are heated along with the rest of the engine, right?



Don't store your tension bolts in the oven with your housing in the freezer and the factory specs should always apply (with reason).


[/quote]





finally... god damn.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I run it a little tigher than factory, which is like 29 lb-ft?

I normally run it up to 32 - 35 lb-ft, but there's really no reason to do so. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Running it *too tight* does inhibit the motor from turning properly. :(





-Ted

http://fc3spro.com/

I would rather blow a head gasket than crack a cylinder wall, but that's just me. When hitting the tension bolts I am usually with Ted on this one. I run 30lbs on stock tension bolts and 32lbs on the studded assemblies. I know of others who run 35lbs on studded assemblies. Keep in mind torque specs will vary significantly with wet or dry. Just because your gonna put more power through the motor doesn't mean you should preload the tensioner/fastener even more.

[quote name='RETed' date='Jul 7 2005, 03:18 AM']... which is like 29 lb-ft?


[/quote]

correct... ive used 32 on stock new tension bolts...