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Old Aug 10, 2003 | 10:06 PM
  #1  
BigTurbo74's Avatar
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putting in tension bolts. all fit perfectly except one....yeah just my luck. the motor is sealed up and everything but this one tension bolt does not hit threads like the rest do. when untighted the rest of the tension bolts seat about 1/2in up while this one doesn't. it seems like the bolt is not long enough to hit threads. i checked them on the bolt and they are fine. next try i tryied and using the 17th position one that is longer and it starts to thread and then breaks free again while i torque it down.(or at least it feels that it is hitting threads) WHAT SHOULD I DO!!!!!! **** i thought it was all good until BOOM. is it possible to leave one out and torque the others harder? or possibly leave it in and seal it/>
Old Aug 10, 2003 | 10:19 PM
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When I was putting my motor back together I had an apex seal spring shoot out when was moving the rotor up and down on to the stationary gear. After looking everywhere, I still couldn't find it. I was getting ready to break the motor apart again, when I put the tension bolt in guess what was at the bottom. I had to use vaccum line and jam it down the hole to pull it out.





Normally is the tension bolt doesn't thread it could be a warped housing. If they are new, then loosen them (in order) and retighten them (in order) What do you have to lose. Other than that I have no ideas right now.
Old Aug 10, 2003 | 11:00 PM
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yea this **** sucks
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 03:05 AM
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well i have come to the conclustion that the threads are fucked up. i know this may be a strong conclusion but the longer tension bolt starts into threads and then pops out. one mistake i did not do is break free the tension bolts before using air tools to draw them out. i used air tools to break them free and i must have broken some threads by doing this...........tomorrow i am going to take off front housing to make sure nothing is in the way. does anyone know if the hylomar will allow me to peel the housing away without destroying the brand new seals? could i used them still?
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 03:16 AM
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cross threading sucks... when you were taking the bolts out in the first place was it not budging then you gave it alot of force? same applys for putting them on.
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 03:29 AM
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well i used an air tool to break free the bolts and to run them out so i wasn't really able to feel how tight they were in each thread
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 06:28 AM
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does anyone know if the hylomar will allow me to peel the housing away without destroying the brand new seals? could i used them still?


Do it very carefully. Slowly separate the front housing/plate and use a torch or similar to make sure the seals aren't sticking to the front plate. If they do and you stretch them they will be buggered. If they are stuck, use soemthing like a thin metal ruler to ease them off the plate so that they stay in the aluminium (not a typo, that's the aussie spelling!) grooves.



Oh yeah, and secure the rest of the motor together so that seals don't become disloged and fall out!



Old Aug 11, 2003 | 06:55 AM
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Err, obviously seals will be in the metal side plates not the aluminium rotor housings for a newer motor. I was stuck in the 70's!
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 01:17 PM
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well i've been looking at the pics posted in previous threads and it seems that the hole for this tension bolt has different coloration in it meaning corrosion or some build up of some kind. you can see it if you look closely in the first few pics...if anyone is rebuilding their motor right now, CHECK THE TENSION BOLT THREADS!!!!!!!
Old Aug 11, 2003 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTurbo74' date='Aug 11 2003, 10:17 AM
well i've been looking at the pics posted in previous threads and it seems that the hole for this tension bolt has different coloration in it meaning corrosion or some build up of some kind. you can see it if you look closely in the first few pics...if anyone is rebuilding their motor right now, CHECK THE TENSION BOLT THREADS!!!!!!!


I have read it is recommended that you tap out the tension bolt holes as well as the bolt holes for the stationary gears every time you break open a motor.



The proper bottoming taps are available through McMaster-Carr.



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