how much hp are you looking to be getting ?

as much as possible https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png with the engine not needing rebuild every 20k miles, I want 50k miles before the next rebuild, so I'm lookin 450 to 500 hp, and yea, I know more can be had if I get a turbo motor, but I like the powerband that this setup will give, even though it won't max as high

tuning and not boosting all the time will make your motor last more than 50k miles

oh yea, i plan on having it dyno tuned in new orleans. and i won't boost all the time, well, not as much all the time. just when I feel like making civic owners **** themselves https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png haha, j/k



Im lookin at a half bridge to spool a to4r, like I said, so I'm hoping that will last longer than a full bridge, and still idle with a/c running.

i think people need to look into what cryotreating really is.



I can't find any reference in text books or industry standards. It is not listed as a process in ANSI or ATSME.



I can understand if you are tempering it and using super cooled fluid with high heat capacity to avoid cetain regions of the phase diagrams to get martinsite but if you are someone taking a disc rotor or a gear off the shelf and cooling it in liquid nitrogen and taking it out, you are wasteing your time.



I talked to a metullurgy professor about it the other day over coffee, lab results show only marginal gains in rockwell hardness and yeild strengths, and those can be discredited by the tolerance in teh equipment used to measure the values.



It may however reduce the stress concentrations on the object you are treating, but that is not documented, and has not been found quantitiatively yet.



So in my opinion you are wasting your time. But that is my opinion and everyone has their own.

part b to that would be that if you get into detonation really bad its gonna break it anyways, weather cryoed or not

ooo, its nice to hear that mechanical engineering talk there, that tells me what i need to know, thanks, I'm not gonna try it.

It has been my experience with cryo treatments in building hi perf motorcycle racing engines, that it's worthless, and a waste of money. the only items that benefit from cryo in a piston motor are the pistons themselves, that said, doing the piston rings is a large mistake(sealing issues occur if the rings are done), as well as everything else. found no benefits and found it to never run cooler than a non treated motor as was claimed.



ceramic coatings to the rotor may help, but I am new to rotaries and cannot verify this, on a piston engine the ceramic coating on the piston top and combustion chamber will keep the heat where you want it.



teflon coatings are another option as well, but friction doesn't seem to be a major issue in a rotary motor, so I would keep it simple and not try and reinvent the wheel. do things like reduce your rotating mass, remove any obstructions in the intake and exhaust tracts(porting) work on your fueling (mapping, and not just at WOT, a smooth clean bottom side of the map will make the top end go that much better)



good luck

How can teflon be effective in an internal combustion engine, when the enviroment inside an internal combustion engine is outside the heat range of teflon?



Cryotreament = ricer BS



Cermanic coatings prevent thermal conduction, I'm not sure if this is good or bad.



One real performance gain is to use some sort of reinforced cermanic on an aluminum block such that you are able to reduce the weight of the block even more by taking more material off and allowing the ceramic to take the abuse of the heat and stresses. But the toughness of the ceramic is not very high

a rotary has something like 40% less friction at 5000ish rpms than a similar sized piston motor, so thats one area where the rotary is better.