-stig-

hello!



have a little problem on my hands.



yesterday i got a oilleak from the fwd bolt on the e-shaft. pulled this out, replaced the sealant and torqued it up again.. then i got a nasty sound,almost like a drivebelt who slips. like a compressor on the car



cant feel any endplay, and sound disapears when i loosen the bolt...



what could gone wrong?



buildt this engine a month ago,and have been driving probably 2500km, and 10-15pulls @400rwhp on the dynapack...

Stanello

A torringron bearing could've shifted and falllen off the endplay spacer when you took the bolt out, then got pinched when you retorqued it. I would pull the front cover off and have a look.

-stig-

i have just pulled the frontcover off, and found a fucked thrust bearing, shim and spacer... but cant understand why.. the outer bearing and shims where just fine, no marks at all.. but the inner bearing had som cracked rollers, shims have grooves and the spacer is worn.. the engine is new buildt, and the endplay was within limits...

Lynn E. Hanover

When you removed the bolt and pulled it out, the stack (pulley hub, spacer, drive gear, sprocket, front counter weight and spacer) are free to move. They moved forward a bit, and the rear bearing fell off of the spacer. When you put the bolt back in and tightened it up, the spacer crushed the rear bearing, and the end play is then anywhere from excessive if the bearing stays sort of straight to zero if the bearing deforms.



It is a very common problem with the rotary. You must hold pressure on the front pulley forcing it to the rear the whole time the bolt is out, and until such time as the bolt is torqued back up. This will happen nearly every time you take out the bolt if you don't.



You can assemble the stack in the car and hold the bearings and spacer in place as you go along. Start with a big blob of grease on the bearings and spacer. Another trick is non hardening permatex sealant to glue the spacer to the crank so it won't move at all. Then a blob of grease to hold the bearings in place.



If the pan stays on during your repair, be sure to account for every roller missing from the race, and check for missing pieces from the race. None of that stuff will go through the oil pump.



Lynn E. Hanover

1988RedT2

If the front e-shaft bolt is removed, say to do the oil pellet mod, is it sufficient to block the clutch down before removing the bolt?

mazdaspeed7

Yes. The big thing is to make sure the ecc shaft doesnt shift either forward or back when the bolt is loose. If the ecc shaft doesnt move, the chance of the bearing falling behind the spacer is very slim. And pay attention when you are tightening the bolt. If it feels different, dont torque it. Pull it back out and check it. The few minutes is not worth all the damaged parts.



Ive done it numerous times, and the best advice I can give is a little attention to the details will go a very long way.

Lynn E. Hanover

Very good point. The rear bearing will be clamped between the rear of the thrust plate and the rear hardened washer. So long as the clutch pressure is not released, it should work perfectly, even if the spacer moves forward or is even replaced to change the end play.



Lynn E. Hanover

-stig-

thanks for good advice!



can se the marks on the spacer from it crushing 2rollers on the bearing, so mystery solved



pretty booring tho, i was going to Norway's biggest and best track (artic circle raceway) this weekend and hammer that thing around a bit, but now i have to sit at home and wait for my parts..



but i learn as i go along