Bridge Port-what Carb&seals
10-10-2003, 12:48 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix az
Posts: 12
I an bridge porting a 90 turbo motor with 9.7 rotors and running n/a. What carb do I run (other than a holley) and what apex seals do i use for the bridge. i have done some research on weber carbs , but people use different models (50 dcoe-48 ida-51 ida)??? Why couldn't I use a vw bug carb(idf),they look very similar?/
please help!!
please help!!
10-10-2003, 10:22 AM
#5
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Nu Yawk Nu Yawk, FL
Posts: 92
good idea running 4 port on a bridge engine.. perfect setup.. since u excluded holley i cant help u...i wouldve said holley 650.. thats the perfect setup.. 13's sec 1/4 mile times for sure.. but since u wanna go weber.. cant help u.. weber needs to much adjustment and doesnt run as good as a holley if u ask me
10-10-2003, 10:27 AM
#6
to infinity & beyond, me
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: santurce
Posts: 5,124
i currently have a "street" bridge, half bridge or bridged secondaries only. i use a dellorto sidedraft 48 DHLA. i had to tap and redrill the holes in the T2 lower manifold to be able to fit the racing beat upper manifold for the carb. this carb with its jetting(which i have no idea what it is) seems to be adecuate. however its not tune, so it runs a tad rich.
as far a VW carbs, u can use them, but the jetting will need to be changed. the only difference is that racing beat did some internal modifications of their own to the carbs. i have no idea what they were.
aas far as the apex seals. from my understanding, if u only do the secondaries a 2 piece is fine, just remember to put the small piece of the apex seal on the primary side. if u are going full bridge then u need 1 piece apex seals. u dont want that small corner falling into the engine.
this site shpould answer most if not all your questions about the dellorto carb
http://www.gruntled.com/Dellorto/
i think that should have answered all your Q's.
feel free to correct me if im wrong, im no expert, just read a lot.
as far a VW carbs, u can use them, but the jetting will need to be changed. the only difference is that racing beat did some internal modifications of their own to the carbs. i have no idea what they were.
aas far as the apex seals. from my understanding, if u only do the secondaries a 2 piece is fine, just remember to put the small piece of the apex seal on the primary side. if u are going full bridge then u need 1 piece apex seals. u dont want that small corner falling into the engine.
this site shpould answer most if not all your questions about the dellorto carb
http://www.gruntled.com/Dellorto/
i think that should have answered all your Q's.
feel free to correct me if im wrong, im no expert, just read a lot.
10-10-2003, 12:29 PM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 14
The Weber 48 IDA is a downdraft racing carb and has no provision for a choke or starting enrichment and is therefore not entirely suitable for street use, especially in the colder climates. Depending on air cleaner height hood clearance may be a problem. If you follow Racing Beat's reccomendations the tuning adjustments will be minimal and should out perform the Holley. Holleys work ok for drag racing but if you are turning corners at any rate of speed Weber is best choice. It comes down to what you are familiar to working with. The Weber IDF (40??) from a VW bug is a street 2 bbl carb but if a 40 is not large enough in capacity for a bridgeport, the 48 IDA is borderline in size and should be modified to 51mm. There is a company in California making large bore Weber replacements, you can find them on the net, do a search for VW parts. The 50 DCOE a side draft racing carb (not sure if it has a starting system, the 45 DCOE does) and is a good choice for a bridgeport. Hood clearance would not pose a problem as the carb is sideways acroos the top of the motor. The 48 DHLA is similar to the 48 DCOE and may not be large enough for a full bridgeport in a racing situation.
Hope this helps with the decision.
Hope this helps with the decision.
10-10-2003, 12:46 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 14
Adding additional info.
The Weber 48 IDA is a downdraft racing carb and has no provision for a choke or starting enrichment and is therefore not entirely suitable for street use, especially in the colder climates. Depending on air cleaner height hood clearance may be a problem. If you follow Racing Beat's reccomendations the tuning adjustments will be minimal and should out perform the Holley. Holleys work ok for drag racing but if you are turning corners at any rate of speed Weber is best choice. It comes down to what you are familiar to working with. The Weber IDF (40??) from a VW bug is a street 2 bbl carb but if a 40 is not large enough in capacity for a bridgeport, the 48 IDA is borderline in size and should be modified to 51mm. The IDF at least will need a custom manifold and much experimentation with jets and emulsion tubes for satisfactory power and driveability. As this would be a very rare combination any help, on the net or service company, would be minimal to non-existant or very expensive.
There is a company in California making large bore Weber replacements, you can find them on the net, do a search for VW parts. The 50 DCOE a side draft racing carb (not sure if it has a starting system, the 45 DCOE does) and is a good choice for a bridgeport. Hood clearance would not pose a problem as the carb is sideways acroos the top of the motor. The 48 DHLA is similar to the 48 DCOE and may not be large enough for a full bridgeport in a racing situation.
Hope this helps with the decision.
The Weber 48 IDA is a downdraft racing carb and has no provision for a choke or starting enrichment and is therefore not entirely suitable for street use, especially in the colder climates. Depending on air cleaner height hood clearance may be a problem. If you follow Racing Beat's reccomendations the tuning adjustments will be minimal and should out perform the Holley. Holleys work ok for drag racing but if you are turning corners at any rate of speed Weber is best choice. It comes down to what you are familiar to working with. The Weber IDF (40??) from a VW bug is a street 2 bbl carb but if a 40 is not large enough in capacity for a bridgeport, the 48 IDA is borderline in size and should be modified to 51mm. The IDF at least will need a custom manifold and much experimentation with jets and emulsion tubes for satisfactory power and driveability. As this would be a very rare combination any help, on the net or service company, would be minimal to non-existant or very expensive.
There is a company in California making large bore Weber replacements, you can find them on the net, do a search for VW parts. The 50 DCOE a side draft racing carb (not sure if it has a starting system, the 45 DCOE does) and is a good choice for a bridgeport. Hood clearance would not pose a problem as the carb is sideways acroos the top of the motor. The 48 DHLA is similar to the 48 DCOE and may not be large enough for a full bridgeport in a racing situation.
Hope this helps with the decision.
10-10-2003, 02:46 PM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 24
The difference between the Weber IDA and IDF series are that the IDA's are race carbs, where the IDF are carbs designed for OE uses (Lamborghini used them on some of their cars). IDFs have a much better progression circuit than the IDA from the factory, and *SOME* of the IDF's have provisions for a choke. If you get a setup from a vw bug, you will not find and choke equipment (I know, I have been into vws for years, no one runs a choke on there car) The carbs use a much different bolt pattern, so you will have to find a specific manifold for either of the carbs you decide to run (you can find the IDA manifold easily, IDF's are hard to come by. The IDA is a little harder to drive around on the street because of the progression circuitry, the carb acts like its either on or off. This can easily be fixed by drilling a third progression hole in the carb. (check out this site http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource...8idarebuild.htm) When I drilled out the third progression hole on my IDA (12a) it made a world of difference. I have driven my car over 20,000 miles with that setup with no problems.
The IDA is probable your best bet. you could go with a 48 IDF but they don't nearly flow as much as a 48 IDA (although there are update kits for the 40 and 44 IDF that make them flow really well http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=508)
The only think with the large 2 barrel carbs is that they dont like to be jabbed at anything really below 3000 rpm, the engine will just bog. hell, I have a 12a and I cant really floor it until 4000!.
The IDA is probable your best bet. you could go with a 48 IDF but they don't nearly flow as much as a 48 IDA (although there are update kits for the 40 and 44 IDF that make them flow really well http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=508)
The only think with the large 2 barrel carbs is that they dont like to be jabbed at anything really below 3000 rpm, the engine will just bog. hell, I have a 12a and I cant really floor it until 4000!.
10-10-2003, 03:23 PM
#10
to infinity & beyond, me
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: santurce
Posts: 5,124
this company has a long standing reputation in the ACVW business. and their carbs offer a wide range of sizes.
http://www.geneberg.com/58ida.htm
and for a T2 motor, i looked and there wasnt any company that made any manifolds for either sidedraft or downdraft weber/dellorto. i easily modified a stock LIM, so i didnt really do a thorough searched. the carb manifold setup i have, however, does not clear the hood. so i had to move the latch up bout 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
i didnt hook up my choke. this would have been my first winter with it, so i wouldnt know about cold weather start up/warm up problems.
http://www.geneberg.com/58ida.htm
and for a T2 motor, i looked and there wasnt any company that made any manifolds for either sidedraft or downdraft weber/dellorto. i easily modified a stock LIM, so i didnt really do a thorough searched. the carb manifold setup i have, however, does not clear the hood. so i had to move the latch up bout 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
i didnt hook up my choke. this would have been my first winter with it, so i wouldnt know about cold weather start up/warm up problems.