Breakin Techniques?
12-13-2004, 09:33 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
Originally Posted by Jdot' date='Dec 13 2004, 03:53 AM
Is it possible to break in an engine by letting it idle at 3 to 5k rpm for "X" amount of time?
Blue TII and I had a lot of fun breaking in his last motor. We just went for a 4-hour drive every night for a week and it was done!
12-13-2004, 02:38 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 19
Yeah I did buy it to drive it 
.I was thinkin' that I could do some sort of mix of the two. Like 1/2 and 1/2. I do realize that you have to actually drive it so things settle in place. Any technical reason why I shouldn't do a partal High Idle breakin?
12-13-2004, 02:59 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 83
There are as many ways to break in a motor as there are to build one up.
Rob at Pineapple will advise you to break in a motor very gently and gradually.
He builds a very tight motor w/ sideseals clearanced just enough to move and everything else tight as well for good compression. Looks like his ports are set up for fast closing/good dynamic effect, but the sideseals need to burnish in the plates.
Ito has stated he breaks in his motors w/ a burnout.
He has written here that he runs higher sideseal clearance especially on turbo motors and really pays attention to being easy on the sideseals at the top/closing line of the port despite the trade off in ultimate power.
So, how does YOUR engine builder recommend the engine is broken in?
Rob at Pineapple will advise you to break in a motor very gently and gradually.
He builds a very tight motor w/ sideseals clearanced just enough to move and everything else tight as well for good compression. Looks like his ports are set up for fast closing/good dynamic effect, but the sideseals need to burnish in the plates.
Ito has stated he breaks in his motors w/ a burnout.
He has written here that he runs higher sideseal clearance especially on turbo motors and really pays attention to being easy on the sideseals at the top/closing line of the port despite the trade off in ultimate power.
So, how does YOUR engine builder recommend the engine is broken in?
12-13-2004, 03:40 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,985
The break in on my Reman was simple. No 5th gear for the first 750 miles. Low boost, light throttle, below 3500 RPM for the first 300 miles, then change the oil. Same thing but below 4500 for the next 200 miles, then change the oil. Then I can get into boost and be a little harder on it for the final 250 miles, 6000 RPM Max, then change the oil. I didn't really push it until I had hit 1000 miles, at which point it was ok to switch to synthetic oil.
The most important factor on engine break in of any type is to constantly vary the RPM. DO NOT set the cruise control, and try to float the speed +/- 5 mph for at least the first 500 miles.
My motor was done up over a year ago by a certified Mazda Rotary Tech at a dealer, he owned a 3rd gen and advised me of this break in procedure.
The most important factor on engine break in of any type is to constantly vary the RPM. DO NOT set the cruise control, and try to float the speed +/- 5 mph for at least the first 500 miles.
My motor was done up over a year ago by a certified Mazda Rotary Tech at a dealer, he owned a 3rd gen and advised me of this break in procedure.
12-13-2004, 08:16 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bayou-self Louisiana
Posts: 947
I asked Leonard Hughes of Candies and Hughes about that for my boat motors that I have gotten. He said its the load that is produced on the seals and friction surfaces and the reason to vary is so that the seals scuff is not shaped at one rpm and torque load. Its kinda of like sharpening a lead pencil but only rubbing one side. You want the seals and surfaces to break in equally through out your rpm range and torque load.If broken in over on a small rpm range and sam torque then the seal would not be as effective outside of that. drag racing they clearance the seals so they just go.
FYI
FYI
