break in on race motor?
#1
i just did some trading and got a built motor from my brother.
nice size half bridge with TII plates and s5 NA rotating assembly. fully pinned too. everything was replaced during the rebuild including the bearings. this motor will be used for all motor quatermile racing only. i have always broke in my motors for atleast 600 miles. and being easy on them until 1000 miles. is it OK to just start it up for the first time. go strait into tuning, and then racing it?
nice size half bridge with TII plates and s5 NA rotating assembly. fully pinned too. everything was replaced during the rebuild including the bearings. this motor will be used for all motor quatermile racing only. i have always broke in my motors for atleast 600 miles. and being easy on them until 1000 miles. is it OK to just start it up for the first time. go strait into tuning, and then racing it?
#2
Originally Posted by sen2two' post='909335' date='Oct 6 2008, 12:41 PM
i just did some trading and got a built motor from my brother.
nice size half bridge with TII plates and s5 NA rotating assembly. fully pinned too. everything was replaced during the rebuild including the bearings. this motor will be used for all motor quatermile racing only. i have always broke in my motors for atleast 600 miles. and being easy on them until 1000 miles. is it OK to just start it up for the first time. go strait into tuning, and then racing it?
nice size half bridge with TII plates and s5 NA rotating assembly. fully pinned too. everything was replaced during the rebuild including the bearings. this motor will be used for all motor quatermile racing only. i have always broke in my motors for atleast 600 miles. and being easy on them until 1000 miles. is it OK to just start it up for the first time. go strait into tuning, and then racing it?
If it was all new pieces, and has steel seals, you can run it at fast idle for 4 hours and that would be enough for me. With carbon seals even 2 hours is enough. If the engine has ceramic seals still 2 hours.
This is done with a cheap fleet oil. Non-synthetic. Straight weight. Fast idle is 2,200 RPM. Big fan and a water hose on the radiator if needed. Then a few passes well below peak RPM, and well short of full throttle.
Then dump the oil and filter and add a straight 40 or 50 weight (ask the builder) racing synthetic. Premix a synthetic 2 cycle in the fuel at one ounce per gallon of fuel.
If it was built with synthetics, it will take a year to break in. But even breakin is an over rated idea.
Just don't get it real hot when its young. Road racing engines run best on the third or fourth weekend.
After a breakin as above.
Lynn E. Hanover
#4
yeah back in the day we used to fast idle em for an hour or so, and then it gets some easy laps.... and then some hard ones.
yesterday, we fired up the race car, its a honda, new rings and bearings, drove it around the building, and threw it on the dyno. we made about 10 power passes, and then we ran a few more to "break it in" our motor people drag race, we figured a whole season of racing for them is like 15minutes of track time so they dont need a break in.
yesterday, we fired up the race car, its a honda, new rings and bearings, drove it around the building, and threw it on the dyno. we made about 10 power passes, and then we ran a few more to "break it in" our motor people drag race, we figured a whole season of racing for them is like 15minutes of track time so they dont need a break in.
#5
yeah, i figured it will only be doin a quartermile at a time. maybe 4-5 passes a night. once a week, if that. so it will not be getting a lot of milage. i'll probley tear it down to go bigger on the porting before it even gets much wear.
#6
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='909350' date='Oct 6 2008, 04:45 PM
yeah back in the day we used to fast idle em for an hour or so, and then it gets some easy laps.... and then some hard ones.
yesterday, we fired up the race car, its a honda, new rings and bearings, drove it around the building, and threw it on the dyno. we made about 10 power passes, and then we ran a few more to "break it in" our motor people drag race, we figured a whole season of racing for them is like 15minutes of track time so they dont need a break in.
yesterday, we fired up the race car, its a honda, new rings and bearings, drove it around the building, and threw it on the dyno. we made about 10 power passes, and then we ran a few more to "break it in" our motor people drag race, we figured a whole season of racing for them is like 15minutes of track time so they dont need a break in.
I have some piston engine tricks for racing if you want them.
Lynn E. Hanover
#7
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='909761' date='Oct 12 2008, 05:57 AM
I have some piston engine tricks for racing if you want them.
Lynn E. Hanover
Lynn E. Hanover
sure! these honda engines are good in a lot of ways, but they do fail in a pretty spectacular manner. especially vtec engines, our competition regularly puts the connecting rods on the header.
our last engine got over revved and the valves were bent, and missing some heads, #3 was missing the valve seat (and looked like someone took a chisel to it), and it cracked the cylinder too.
#8
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='909785' date='Oct 12 2008, 03:01 PM
sure! these honda engines are good in a lot of ways, but they do fail in a pretty spectacular manner. especially vtec engines, our competition regularly puts the connecting rods on the header.
our last engine got over revved and the valves were bent, and missing some heads, #3 was missing the valve seat (and looked like someone took a chisel to it), and it cracked the cylinder too.
our last engine got over revved and the valves were bent, and missing some heads, #3 was missing the valve seat (and looked like someone took a chisel to it), and it cracked the cylinder too.
Years ago we raced a Lotus Super Seven. It had a piece of **** 1340CC ford pushrod 4 cylinder engine with a cast hollow crank. You could only run that crank about 4 weekends before pitching it.
We were stretching our luck one weekend when the car let out a huge cloud of smoke and oiled the track down real good.
The stats guy came round to write up the failure and I told him the battery exploded. He says really? I have never had one of those. I said yep, the crank broke, opened the drivers side of the engine, jammed the starter against the frame rail shorting the big fat wire, and the battery blew up..................Just another electrical failure.
So we got a DNF....Battery.
Lynn E. Hanover
#9
haha. ours was slow all weekend, then once it crested the hill at turn 5, it was small puffs then boom huge cloud of smoke.
engine didnt want to spin over, when we pulled it out, there were broken chips of valve seats, and cylinder walls (honda is an open deck engine), the head of #3 valve was just sitting there....
our engine guy goes drag racing with these hondas (they are in the 9's with 800hp....) so he's seen this before (there was another in the shop), and was just mad, cause this was his engine, not ours.....
when we started racing the hondas, we decided doing then engine AND chassis development was too much, so we got warren to build the engines and tune em, which has been really nice.
we've been able to datalog things like shock position and speed, steering angle, brake pressure etc.
engine didnt want to spin over, when we pulled it out, there were broken chips of valve seats, and cylinder walls (honda is an open deck engine), the head of #3 valve was just sitting there....
our engine guy goes drag racing with these hondas (they are in the 9's with 800hp....) so he's seen this before (there was another in the shop), and was just mad, cause this was his engine, not ours.....
when we started racing the hondas, we decided doing then engine AND chassis development was too much, so we got warren to build the engines and tune em, which has been really nice.
we've been able to datalog things like shock position and speed, steering angle, brake pressure etc.