Break-in Procedures According To Mazda?
05-29-2004, 09:23 PM
#2
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
from the 1985 owners manual
"break in period
by following a few simple precautions for the first 1,000 kilometers (600miles), you can add to the performance, economy and long life of your vehicle.
do not race the engine
run the engine at varying speeds up to 4,000rpm.
avoid hard stops, except in emergemcies this will allow the brakes to seat properly
avoid full throttle starts"
"break in period
by following a few simple precautions for the first 1,000 kilometers (600miles), you can add to the performance, economy and long life of your vehicle.
do not race the engine
run the engine at varying speeds up to 4,000rpm.
avoid hard stops, except in emergemcies this will allow the brakes to seat properly
avoid full throttle starts"
05-29-2004, 10:14 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,871
From Mazda Motorsports Online Tech info:
Some of that got messed up, so look for yourself!
Rotary Engine Break-in Procedures
A proper and careful break-in period for a newly rebuilt engine is extremely important. The break-in procedures listed on the following page may seem excessive. However, an engine that has been broken in properly will see more power across the engine's rpm range and longer service life than a comparable engine that has not. If using the old bearings, please note the difference in hours and mileage requirements for the break-in period.
When breaking in any engine (race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral-based racing oil (20W or 30W). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30W or 40W).
Race Engine Break-in Procedures
The information provided in this catalog is intended for use by individuals with some knowledge of rotary engine rebuilding. There are many experienced high-performance rotary engine rebuilders across the country. Please contact us for the locations of these shops.
Race Engine Break-In
Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break-in figures on the following table. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.
TIME & MILEAGE RECOMMENDATIONS
DYNO HOURS MILEAGE
RPM NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS
1500 0.5 - - -
2000 0.5 0.5 - -
2500 0.5 - - -
3000 0.5 - - -
4000 1.0 0.5 - -
5000 1.0 0.5 60 -
6000 1.5 0.5 60 25
6500 1.5 0.5 - -
7000 - - 60 25
8000 - - 60 25
8500 - - 60 25
TOTAL 7.0 2.5 300 100
RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE & COMPRESSION
BREAK-IN RANGE NORMAL RANGE MAXIMUM LIMIT
Coolant Temperature
(Outlet Side) 160° - 175° F 160° - 195° F 205° F
Oil Temperature
(Oil Pan) 160° - 175° F 195° - 230° F 250° F
A proper and careful break-in period for a newly rebuilt engine is extremely important. The break-in procedures listed on the following page may seem excessive. However, an engine that has been broken in properly will see more power across the engine's rpm range and longer service life than a comparable engine that has not. If using the old bearings, please note the difference in hours and mileage requirements for the break-in period.
When breaking in any engine (race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral-based racing oil (20W or 30W). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30W or 40W).
Race Engine Break-in Procedures
The information provided in this catalog is intended for use by individuals with some knowledge of rotary engine rebuilding. There are many experienced high-performance rotary engine rebuilders across the country. Please contact us for the locations of these shops.
Race Engine Break-In
Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break-in figures on the following table. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.
TIME & MILEAGE RECOMMENDATIONS
DYNO HOURS MILEAGE
RPM NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS
1500 0.5 - - -
2000 0.5 0.5 - -
2500 0.5 - - -
3000 0.5 - - -
4000 1.0 0.5 - -
5000 1.0 0.5 60 -
6000 1.5 0.5 60 25
6500 1.5 0.5 - -
7000 - - 60 25
8000 - - 60 25
8500 - - 60 25
TOTAL 7.0 2.5 300 100
RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE & COMPRESSION
BREAK-IN RANGE NORMAL RANGE MAXIMUM LIMIT
Coolant Temperature
(Outlet Side) 160° - 175° F 160° - 195° F 205° F
Oil Temperature
(Oil Pan) 160° - 175° F 195° - 230° F 250° F
Some of that got messed up, so look for yourself!
05-31-2004, 06:14 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 203
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='May 30 2004, 07:20 PM
Interesting. So where does everyone get these wild breaking #s? Especially for new bearings, I've been told 2k mile breaking since I used new bearings...
The mazda engines are pre-run and built with 100% new parts, so you can't compare to the 1000 mile break-in Mazda litsed for their new cars in 1985.
As well, you can't compare street engines to race engines. Race engines are torn down, at the very minimum, every season. Also, racing engines are Damn hard to break-in, as they do not drive very gingerly in the low-rpm ranges; that's why they are race engines.
05-31-2004, 06:57 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by scathcart' date='May 31 2004, 06:14 PM
Because compression is still increasing past 1000 miles, obviously the seals are not broken in to the housings.
The mazda engines are pre-run and built with 100% new parts, so you can't compare to the 1000 mile break-in Mazda litsed for their new cars in 1985.
As well, you can't compare street engines to race engines. Race engines are torn down, at the very minimum, every season. Also, racing engines are Damn hard to break-in, as they do not drive very gingerly in the low-rpm ranges; that's why they are race engines.
The mazda engines are pre-run and built with 100% new parts, so you can't compare to the 1000 mile break-in Mazda litsed for their new cars in 1985.
As well, you can't compare street engines to race engines. Race engines are torn down, at the very minimum, every season. Also, racing engines are Damn hard to break-in, as they do not drive very gingerly in the low-rpm ranges; that's why they are race engines.
05-31-2004, 07:01 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by scathcart' date='May 31 2004, 03:14 PM
Because compression is still increasing past 1000 miles, obviously the seals are not broken in to the housings.
The mazda engines are pre-run and built with 100% new parts, so you can't compare to the 1000 mile break-in Mazda litsed for their new cars in 1985.
As well, you can't compare street engines to race engines. Race engines are torn down, at the very minimum, every season. Also, racing engines are Damn hard to break-in, as they do not drive very gingerly in the low-rpm ranges; that's why they are race engines.
The mazda engines are pre-run and built with 100% new parts, so you can't compare to the 1000 mile break-in Mazda litsed for their new cars in 1985.
As well, you can't compare street engines to race engines. Race engines are torn down, at the very minimum, every season. Also, racing engines are Damn hard to break-in, as they do not drive very gingerly in the low-rpm ranges; that's why they are race engines.
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