Actual N/a Timing Numbers? Ito?
#11
Originally Posted by JLB' date='Jan 26 2004, 05:55 PM
Yes, it is a street car. Well, I just finished with a little tweaking. First, I pulled the crank pulley off and laid out timing marks in 5 degree increments from TDC to 25 BTDC. I used a very small file to make notches at each mark, then used and engraving tool to label a couple of them. Makes it very easy to see right where you are. And, it turned out that at full advance I was way more advanced than I thought.
So, I set the leading for 20 degrees at full advance. I then connected the trailing ignition with a stock 1st gen coil so that the trailing was going through the cap and rotor. The leading is still just getting a signal from the pickup in the dist to waste fire the 2nd gen coil. I set the trailing at 10 degrees full advance.
I can't let a little thing like freezing rain interfere with my tuning so I just took it for a spin (but not literally!). I was actually impressed with how it ran! Granted, the timing might not be perfect, but now it's finally close enough that I can focus more on fuel mapping. Before it was just too many variables to guess at all at once. Over the weekend I took off the stock S5 NA fuel injection and installed my now 10 year old SDS EFI. For those that say this is not a good system I challenge you to find a unit as reliable that comes with anywhere near the customer service this unit does - specially for the price. But anyway, I cannot begin to estimate the performance gain I'm already seeing over the stock injection and it's not even dialed in yet! After building the street ported engine the stock injection ran way too RICH to run very well - and the stock air flow meter was probably choking things down, too. I found totally disconnecting the boost sensor (which defaults to the lean side) actually made it run better! I never expected it to go rich like that, but since then I have found many people on here that also had that happen.
I am thinking about a dyno adventure in the near future to dial everything in. But first I want to get it running as good as possible by just driving it. There are several chassis dynos near me - the closest is actually an eddy current one that allows a steady speed loading as well as the conventional pulls...
Thanks for all the input everyone!
Jason
So, I set the leading for 20 degrees at full advance. I then connected the trailing ignition with a stock 1st gen coil so that the trailing was going through the cap and rotor. The leading is still just getting a signal from the pickup in the dist to waste fire the 2nd gen coil. I set the trailing at 10 degrees full advance.
I can't let a little thing like freezing rain interfere with my tuning so I just took it for a spin (but not literally!). I was actually impressed with how it ran! Granted, the timing might not be perfect, but now it's finally close enough that I can focus more on fuel mapping. Before it was just too many variables to guess at all at once. Over the weekend I took off the stock S5 NA fuel injection and installed my now 10 year old SDS EFI. For those that say this is not a good system I challenge you to find a unit as reliable that comes with anywhere near the customer service this unit does - specially for the price. But anyway, I cannot begin to estimate the performance gain I'm already seeing over the stock injection and it's not even dialed in yet! After building the street ported engine the stock injection ran way too RICH to run very well - and the stock air flow meter was probably choking things down, too. I found totally disconnecting the boost sensor (which defaults to the lean side) actually made it run better! I never expected it to go rich like that, but since then I have found many people on here that also had that happen.
I am thinking about a dyno adventure in the near future to dial everything in. But first I want to get it running as good as possible by just driving it. There are several chassis dynos near me - the closest is actually an eddy current one that allows a steady speed loading as well as the conventional pulls...
Thanks for all the input everyone!
Jason
the sds price went up they are now $700, the e11 was twice that, but it will turn on the coffee maker if i want it too
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