4-rotor anyone
#31
Originally Posted by Danomite' post='818407' date='May 10 2006, 10:23 PM
thanks for the heads-up guys...I have been wondering why the cost has gone from 4500 to 9500 in the last year. I will be calling Jeff this evening!
#32
Originally Posted by Nospig' post='818380' date='May 9 2006, 11:02 PM
Call Jeff Bruce at Precision Engineering, NZ 09 4153264. He makes the shaft , modifies the side plates to take stat gears dowels and pp's the rotor housings. Kiwi re just gets the bits and adds there 150% markup.
I spoke to Jeff about a week ago , and there is a US agent that sells the stuff , but i forget who he said it was.
Well I talked to Jeff and he just wants me to email him what I want and he'll give me some prices. I dont know whether he was just having a bad day, or mabey just really busy, but he did'nt really seem to want to talk much which I can understand. He rattled off a bunch of prices and I couldnt hear or understand him that well. Also mentioned something about building an older series motor, something to do with the water seal location in the side plates and port configuration. The only engine I have any experience with is series 6 so now I'm a bit more confused... we'll see whether I can get on the same page as him.
#34
So I talked to Steve Kahn today about driveability, tunability, etc for a PP 4rotor and he didnt really feel that such an agressive port would be very well mannered at low throttle, which makes sense, which makes me wonder about the whole setup now. I would like the ability to be able to just cruse around from time to time...
decisions, decisions...I could just throw a big single on there at low boost for a moderate 700 hp or so, which might actually make the build a lot easier.
decisions, decisions...I could just throw a big single on there at low boost for a moderate 700 hp or so, which might actually make the build a lot easier.
#36
Originally Posted by Danomite' post='818756' date='May 11 2006, 07:42 PM
So I talked to Steve Kahn today about driveability, tunability, etc for a PP 4rotor and he didnt really feel that such an agressive port would be very well mannered at low throttle, which makes sense, which makes me wonder about the whole setup now. I would like the ability to be able to just cruse around from time to time...
decisions, decisions...I could just throw a big single on there at low boost for a moderate 700 hp or so, which might actually make the build a lot easier.
4-rotor just has the uber-cool factor going for it. Other than that for 700whp a 3-rotor side port with a single would be more economical. You'd have better driveability and reliability should be good if the tune is good.
#37
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' post='818840' date='May 12 2006, 05:15 AM
4-rotor just has the uber-cool factor going for it. Other than that for 700whp a 3-rotor side port with a single would be more economical. You'd have better driveability and reliability should be good if the tune is good.
how do you figure? after buying a 3rotor, rebuilding it, getting a single setup, ecu and such you would spend just as much or more money. plus the reliability of a N/A rotary compared to forced induction is worth any extra cost in my opinion. they should both weigh about the same too. and it's not like a 20b is a stright drop in in an fd, so custom fabrication is required for both. We will be building one of these for our shop to run in the gumball 3000 next year
#40
There are a couple of stumbling blocks for the whole 4rotor thing, one: what ecu will control eight injectors, and run split timing, and two: the only porting option is a P port since there are two intermetiate housing, both of which have only primary ports.