dubsrwe

my question is how is a PP done i have looked but all i can find is street,J and bridge ports i guess im looking at a PP and saying wow that would be cool, im going to drive the car on the street, driveability is not realy an issue as im used to big cams on the street. i want to do a good port of some sort that makes it lumpy and gives it good power na, i may allso boost ontop of that but im not shure yet any input would be nice thanks.

Maxt

You block off the side ports, and bore some nice big holes into the rotor housings, shape your ports, stand in front of a mill and tig for about 16 hours to pop out a set of ITB's with fuel rails and a header.. Then you play with the thing in your driveway for a few hours to make it idle at 900 rpm, Spend 4 hours on the dyno , then run the hell out of it on the road course at 10,000 rpm.. In a nutshell anyway..

The s5 rotors are the best choice, you need to shed mass from the motor, and the flywheel..

Mine started as "can I build this at home project out of junk parts" and has progressed from there, I need to shed a more weight from the flywheel and make a gear ratio change to suit the motor, the 1-2 change is to wide on the stock turbo transmission..

You can make a pport in varying degrees of raunchiness, this one is very mild, the ports were done to make the car livable on the street. Its a fun car to drive on the track and the street, I run a silencer on the street to take the edge off the noise.. The body the engine is in, is a base model, so it was overwhelmed on the track, the suspension and the brakes were not good enough for what the motor could do. the s4 na is around 110 rwhp, and now is 230 ish rwhp, I am moving the engine to a caged gutted turbo shell in spring.. Since the next car will be just a track car, the ports will be enlarged mor

e, the idle will probably go to hell, but on a track then who cares, power will go up along with it..

A N/A rotary will never be a cummins turbo diesel, so weight shedding and gearing is really important to make the car fast, thats what I have to watch on the next build up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHfyaqH9dt0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd-5NZSphBI

jwteknix

sick

dubsrwe

so would you just make a blockoff plate to go on the side of the motor were the intake mani went or do you weld up the ports from the inside? and what are the benifits of a PP over all the other types ports(if any?) i am a machinist by trade so it souldent be to hard for me to do if i go this route.

j9fd3s

they actually fill the ports with devcon....



PP has much much better VE than any other type of port. although timing (size and shape) of the port are critical on a "street" car

hsmidy

ya can use a block off plate on the intake ports, it has been done although im not aware of any disadvantage of doing it this way, plus ya can always slap the old manifold on the plates, e.g you dont need to stuff them with devcon

dubsrwe

is there anything that could hold the motor back by just blocking off the ports from the outside instead of filling them with devcon? and how would you go about timeing the ports is there anywhere that would give dimentions of were to bore the holes? and how well dose this port work when boost is added?

hsmidy

youd probly need ya block set up so you can use a degrees wheel to find what port timing ya want, there is a thread in here with info on the , i have heard of the epoxy filler becoming hard and brittle and then following into the rotor housing, but im not aware of any draw back by just blocking the ports from the outside

Maxt

I think the dead open port would collect fuel and gunk after awhile, I think thats the main reason for the blocking off.. its easy to devcon them off.... I have seen P-port irons that came directly from Mazda in Japan, and they were just epoxy filled..

j9fd3s

thats how mine are, they filled the entire port too