TweakGames

Hello all. I finally found my 13b-re, and it's running even! First let me give you a little feedback on my setup and plans.



Currently have:

unported stock 13b-re

ACT clutch

Light Flywheel

Greddy not divided (log type) t4 manifold

xs power turbo (GONE ASAP, I am looking for to4e .60)

Meth injection, no intercooler

Haltech e11v2

Steve Kan tune in a couple months



That is about it. I have been rebuilding my own engines with great luck and will be rebuilding this one. I am looking ONLY for a reliable 300-320 rwhp on pump gas. (should be 10-12 psi on the to4e I think) I have meth injection, but I am trying to use that as a fail safe and intake cooler. (will tune without meth other than to cool intake, then add more after the dyno) I MIGHT use it (in the tune) during track days to turn up the boost a little and get the most out of the the turbo. (16-18 psi max I would think)



Anyways, I would like to have an idle 1000 max, and no ruff brap brap idle. What porting templates would you recommend, or would you recommend I port anything at all? I am going to be replacing my exhaust sleeves with my s4 t2 exhaust sleeves. (or FD if I can find them for cheap)



Thanks

~Tweak

fc3sboy1

on my re i used a modified ( by myself ) version of dave lemons ( mazdatrix ) turbo 4 port template. and then used ported s5 rotor housings and sold the re housings. the motor make very very good power with a gt45. there is more material then one would think of on a re to port out but be carfull.



randy

TweakGames

Thank you for the fast reply. May I ask, how is your idle? What RPM do you idle at? Do you have any pictures of your ports? After you swapped in the s5 rotor housings did you port the exhaust ports at all? Wow gt45 scary I definitely do not want that much power. I have some s5 t2 rotor housings. I guess I could swap the rotor housings out completely if that is considered and upgrade.



Anybody else?

fc3sboy1

the idle is smooth as glass at 900 or 1000 rpm depending on what tune i have in the car. seams to cruze down the interstate at 60 to 90 very easy but its its happiest at 13.5 to 14.1 a/f ratio and the egts get way too warm if i run it at 14.7 to 15.7 like i used to with a t2 motor. the exhaust ports are just a small street and the intake ports some might call a extended port wich is why i call it a moddified 4 port street port. i would rather not publish my port work thought , there are some things i like to keep to myself ya know. i did have to run 2 inline mufflers on the car since my exhaust is 3.5 inches from the turbo all the way back to keep the car quiet. and this car sounds like no other lol ver ver cool sound .



randy

j9fd3s

for only 300-320ish hp, id just open the primaries up to the FD or maybe s4 t2 spec, and then port the exhaust a little.

TweakGames

Ok, thank you. I have quite a few people that are just recommending I don't port anything, and I might not. Their logic is need more power, run more boost. They recommend that also because since I have somewhat of a smaller easy to spool turbo (the to4e) that there will be almost no gains spool wise from porting, and that I will be able to easily make up for the lost power in porting from running 2 psi more. It is hard for me to just let free HP go by. From my research I have seen that a decent street port can gain around 15% power, and 45 free HP is even harder to throw away. (300x1.15=345) What do you guys think about their opinions?



I do like the idea of porting the primary to at least a stock FD or s4 t2 port (is s4 t2 port the largest stock??) and opening up the exhaust a little. I don't see how that could change much of my idle seeing how those are stock sizes.

fc3sboy1

what max hp are you after, and where do you want that power to be in your rpm range is a question you need to ask yourself. i would port , a mild street port on your motor and run a safer lower boost level then not port and just up the boost. free hp is best hp if you ask me. talk to bdc or judge ito maybe they can shead some light for you.

j9fd3s

the cosmo has big runners, and big secondary ports but the primary ports are the earliest closing, and smallest ports they had, just opening up to the biggest stock ports, would be a gain, without penalty.



also depends on what you are looking for, stock ports are going to idle well, and make peak power right around 7k



if you want something else then you can do something else, but that would make a nice street car

TweakGames

Thanks a lot you two. I was not aware that the stock primary ports were THAT small. I will have to continue to think about what exactly I want to do. I will most likely not be going much past 7,000 rpm, 7,500 max, as I will not be getting the assembly balanced and the to4e has been known to fall off hard past 7k. Also I passed on new compitition rotor brearings, although I hear the RE has some upgraded rotor bearings and stationary gears. I will most likely be porting the primary port large enough to equal the biggest stock port, and give the secondaries either no, or minimal port job.



The problem with the RE seems to be finding information on it. Very few people have gone the RE path, maybe I should find a 13b-re cosmo forum ... in english. Also I can't search "13b-re" on this forum, the dash seems to screw it up.

j9fd3s

ive got one and its apart. i should take pics.



so the intake ports on the secondary have big runners, and the port openings are similar to the street port templates



the primaries have nice runners too, but the primary ports are smaller than the GSL-SE ones



the exhaust ports have a "weird" insert, theres an acronym for it, and basically it directs the air a certain way out of the port. it doesnt flow quite as well as the fc/fd style, but it will idle better.