gready123456

I have a full bridgeport 12a i am about to assemble the engine but i have 2 piece apex seals. After some research on the using these seals on a full bridgeport i am unsure of what to believe because of mixed results some says it works some say the end pice (small triangle tips of the seals) would get stuck between the port and the notched housing. Please give me some advice on weather or not i can actually use these seals or i should get one piece seals



thank you



gary

gready123456

Here are some cool pics from ausrotary concerning this matter

[attachment=47708:002.jpg]

[attachment=47709raw2.jpg]

http://www.ausrotary...+cut+bridgeport





some say it will work some say its will turn out to be a mess



Any advice ????



in my eyes i think it could work with a conservative bridged secondaries what i am uncertain of is if there is thrust the assist piece might drop down a little and may cause damage to the housing

Baldy

Someone here should know this, bump to help this guy!

gready123456

I know the stock seals are limited in terms of the tolarance to high rpm and they also chatter but i already have the stock seals was just wondering how they would hold up since they are 2 peice seals

Lynn E. Hanover

It is fine to use the two piece, so long as the little end piece has about 3/4 of it face supported by the bridge. If the port turns out as you have it displayed, then t will work. More typical is the half bridge port where the end irons get the full bridge or even a "J" bridge and the center iron gets just a mild street port. Then you assemble the seals with the small part against the center iron.

That way you get some fuel mileage, and show off power up high (To the stock red line). The engine spends most of its life running on the center iron anyway. For a more serious car all irons get the "J" bridge, then you want one piece ceramics or one piece carbons. (much cheaper). A two piece will let the small end fall into the "J" port runner and destroy the engine.



Lynn E. Hanover

gready123456

Thank you lynn i am considering the half bridge due to the fact that i am using stock seals and can only handle 8500-9000 rpm , May be some time in the future i would look into a full bridge , would i be able to run a 48ida with this half bridge ? i have been reading for this setup up a 4 barrel card gives best results ??

Lynn E. Hanover

For a half bridge you want the stock manifold or an aftermarket 4 barrel manifold. That way you run on the center iron until you want to go fast, then the secondaries open and the bridged end irons are supplied with mixture. With the IDA all runners are connected and get mixture all of the time, even at idle. So, no fuel econemy is possible.



Lynn E. Hanover

gready123456

i have already ordered my ida manifold and 48ida carb and it on its way . i have no choice but to use it now i realy am not to conserned about fuel economy as my country is rich with oil and gas natural resources (cheap gas ) . my main concern is would i be able to tune the carb properly for a half brigeport ? i have seen people making statements saying that a 4 barrel is needed to get best results . As long as i can use the ida and get good results i will . if not i will go full bridge with stock seals and the ida .I know that might not be the best option but i am just working with what i have right now . i would love the halfbridge but if the ida is hard to tune for this application i will go full bridge

Lynn E. Hanover

The bridge port gets its power from the early opening point. This also connects the intake and exhaust for a very long period of time. So the tuning becomes more sensitive to exhaust back pressure, header primary length, collector length and angle exhaust pipe diameter and of course muffler design.



So, if the car is to be street drivin, it is likely that you will be disapointed in the results. The engines poor torque in stock trim is all but lost in a bridge ported engine. For track days or pylon racing, this is not a problem as the revs would be well up the whole time. A stock 3.25:1 or close first is required and perhaps a low rear gear like 4.55:1 or so, and smaller tires will all help for starting up. The top speed would then be slower but you seldom use that anyway.



This combination just is not optimal for the IDF. You have the poor low speed of the bridge port, but not the full power of the bridge port. The street port of the center iron will be lost to the bridge ports popping and farting, back fires and lerching. I found that for the best of all worlds, the periphery port has better low speed and amazing high speed performance. The mileage is dismal but you don't car about that.



Give it a try and report back for the troops. Fill in you personal data.



The USA has more recoverable oil than all of OPEC. About a 2,000 year supply at current consumption rates. Canada has about twice that much. If we ever manage to elect a real man as president, there is no reason why gas could not be under $1.00 a galon.



Lynn E. Hanover

gready123456

I would Try the half bridge (stock apex seals ) with the 48ida and see how that works out as for the car its going in its a 83 corolla (KE70) the rear end is out of a hilux i think the gear ratio is 4.8 the is a bit of fab work to be done might have to increase the tunnel hight by about 2-3 inches to accommodate the FC turbo2 gearbox i have an automatic counter weight and a act streetlight flywheel so all FC setup as transmission and clutch goes might have to install the sump pan backwards and mode the oil pickup so the sump can clear the Xmemeber of the car . all in all i have a lot of work to do but i will make a nice thread and put up some pics soon