What's Absolutely Necessary When Rebuilding?
02-23-2003, 03:55 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95' date='Feb 23 2003, 03:15 AM
Well that's the big question....Check out the porting thread. Setzep, since you have an RE, what did you do? Isn't it possible just to remove a bunch of the material as you would with the FD's exhaust sleeves? Ito? What would you recommend?
Yes, it's a 2 rotor, not a three. Cost was $1600 with shipping.
If porting the exhaust sleeves isn't an option, I guess I'll replace them with FD sleeves. I've also heard there are some custom sleeves available out there as well but I haven't had a chance to do any searches for them yet.
I've pretty much decided to replace all the seals except for the side seals. If the side seals turn out to be inexpensive then I'll probably replace those too. There was soooo little internal wear on this engine though.
Yes, it's a 2 rotor, not a three. Cost was $1600 with shipping.
If porting the exhaust sleeves isn't an option, I guess I'll replace them with FD sleeves. I've also heard there are some custom sleeves available out there as well but I haven't had a chance to do any searches for them yet.
I've pretty much decided to replace all the seals except for the side seals. If the side seals turn out to be inexpensive then I'll probably replace those too. There was soooo little internal wear on this engine though.
Ok when it comes down to your used side seals. Try this first. When you install the new corner seals, then, when you install the used sideseals, just measure your sideseal to cornerseal gap. Acceptable specs are .002- .006 if you have a bigger GAP then .006 I would highly recomend you replace the sideseals.
02-23-2003, 04:00 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Feb 22 2003, 11:29 PM
[quote name='Judge Ito' date='Feb 22 2003, 05:08 AM'] 6 inner and 6 outer oil rings?? he needs 4 inner and 4 outer oil rings. I think he has a 13B Cosmo engine not a 20B Cosmo engine..
If your going to rebuild this engine I would agree with FD3boost.... every single seal is mandatory for good compression and reliability. Atkins apex seals work, but stock Mazda 2mm seals are better. Make sure you use a nice Micro-meter and the necessary gauges and tools to mic and clearance every single part. From your engine bearings to your seal clearances to the wear on the side housings, to the width on the rotor housings, to the end-play on the flywheel.
If your going to rebuild this engine I would agree with FD3boost.... every single seal is mandatory for good compression and reliability. Atkins apex seals work, but stock Mazda 2mm seals are better. Make sure you use a nice Micro-meter and the necessary gauges and tools to mic and clearance every single part. From your engine bearings to your seal clearances to the wear on the side housings, to the width on the rotor housings, to the end-play on the flywheel.
Honestly I really enjoy measuring every single seal and engine part. It just takes the guessing game away and makes me feel so sure of my work. But you have a Valid Point it does get to be a little Xtreme on your eyes,back and BRAIN starts to hurt after a while.
02-23-2003, 08:26 AM
#13
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Judge - I would love to hear how you get the roll pins out of the exhaust inserts! I have tried several ways but they are sush a hard steel that I have yet to find a good reliable way.
BTW - there have been several posts in the last week on the pinned porting thread - have you checked it out?
Jason
BTW - there have been several posts in the last week on the pinned porting thread - have you checked it out?
Jason
02-23-2003, 09:20 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by JLB' date='Feb 23 2003, 02:26 PM
Judge - I would love to hear how you get the roll pins out of the exhaust inserts! I have tried several ways but they are sush a hard steel that I have yet to find a good reliable way.
BTW - there have been several posts in the last week on the pinned porting thread - have you checked it out?
Jason
BTW - there have been several posts in the last week on the pinned porting thread - have you checked it out?
Jason
02-23-2003, 10:05 AM
#15
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Yes I definitely would like to hear how you do it! So it's no good to just hack the crap out of the Cosmo sleeves huh? I'll be sure to measure everything as well. Thanks for the advice. And Judge, what's your real name??? 
02-23-2003, 10:16 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95' date='Feb 23 2003, 04:05 PM
Yes I definitely would like to hear how you do it! So it's no good to just hack the crap out of the Cosmo sleeves huh? I'll be sure to measure everything as well. Thanks for the advice. And Judge, what's your real name???
02-23-2003, 12:54 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95' date='Feb 22 2003, 09:15 PM
Well that's the big question....Check out the porting thread. Setzep, since you have an RE, what did you do? Isn't it possible just to remove a bunch of the material as you would with the FD's exhaust sleeves? Ito? What would you recommend?
Also I'd like to know the easy way to remove the sleves Judge if you would be so kind
02-23-2003, 01:03 PM
#19
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Great story Ito! I'd show up at the local rotary shop and say "well Judge Ito said such and such" and they'd look at me like I was loco.
If and when you have time, do check out the porting thread as I posted a bunch of images of the Cosmo innards...Just need your opinion before I get started. Thanks to FD3's help/links, I was able to get a hold of 8 carbide bits and an electric rotary grinder(25K rpm)for well under $100. I have at least another week and a half recovery time (shoulder surgery) to sit around and port my engine and measure everything out. You can only watch so much Oprah!
If and when you have time, do check out the porting thread as I posted a bunch of images of the Cosmo innards...Just need your opinion before I get started. Thanks to FD3's help/links, I was able to get a hold of 8 carbide bits and an electric rotary grinder(25K rpm)for well under $100. I have at least another week and a half recovery time (shoulder surgery) to sit around and port my engine and measure everything out. You can only watch so much Oprah!