Tips And Tricks For Rebuilding
08-15-2003, 02:15 PM
#13
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL
Posts: 5,181
^ Buy the proper taps and dies and run them on all fasteners and threaded holes. Use Anti-Seize on all fasteners. I use a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner to get the threads SQEEKY KLEEN before aplying the anti-seize
08-20-2003, 04:08 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 296
1 BUY ALL NEW HARD SEAL AND SPRINGS (I KNOW IT WILL MORE THE TRIPAL THE PROJECT BUT ONLY A DUMBASS WOULDN'T)
2 INNER AND OUT OIL SEALS FROM ATKINS NOT MAZDA
3 APEC SEALS FROM ATKINS
4 ALWAYS A NEW OIL PUMP THE TOLERANCE BETWEEN GOOD AND BAD ARE TO CLOSE AND REUSING YOUR OLD ONE MIGHT MEAN PROBLEM BEFORE THE NEXT 100,000 MILES..AND IT ONLY AND HUNDRED SOMETHING ITS WORTH IT.
5 USE THE RIGHT LOCK TYPE ON BOLTS
6 USE MAZDA OR K&N OIL FILTER OINLY OR ANY WITH A PROPER CHECK VALUE IN THEM
7 USE VASOLINE TO LUBRICATE PRETTY MUCH THE WHOLE ROTOR IN INSTALLATION.
8 TAKE YOU TIME BE IN NO RUSH AT ALL
9 CHECK WATER PASSAGES FOR WHOLES( EVEN ONES AS SMALL AS A NEEDLE AND SOME WHAT DEEP WILL LEAD TO TROUBLE.
10 UNLESS YOU HAVE A FIRST GEN UPGRADE YOU RADIATOR($350-700) AND CHECK YOU OIL COOLER FINS.
2 INNER AND OUT OIL SEALS FROM ATKINS NOT MAZDA
3 APEC SEALS FROM ATKINS
4 ALWAYS A NEW OIL PUMP THE TOLERANCE BETWEEN GOOD AND BAD ARE TO CLOSE AND REUSING YOUR OLD ONE MIGHT MEAN PROBLEM BEFORE THE NEXT 100,000 MILES..AND IT ONLY AND HUNDRED SOMETHING ITS WORTH IT.
5 USE THE RIGHT LOCK TYPE ON BOLTS
6 USE MAZDA OR K&N OIL FILTER OINLY OR ANY WITH A PROPER CHECK VALUE IN THEM
7 USE VASOLINE TO LUBRICATE PRETTY MUCH THE WHOLE ROTOR IN INSTALLATION.
8 TAKE YOU TIME BE IN NO RUSH AT ALL
9 CHECK WATER PASSAGES FOR WHOLES( EVEN ONES AS SMALL AS A NEEDLE AND SOME WHAT DEEP WILL LEAD TO TROUBLE.
10 UNLESS YOU HAVE A FIRST GEN UPGRADE YOU RADIATOR($350-700) AND CHECK YOU OIL COOLER FINS.
09-04-2003, 01:48 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,550
Heat shrink will work fine, the plates should never exceed much over the temp of the water that is flowing threw them just over 100'c max, so the heat shrink will be fine. I've never actually seen a torsen bolt fail however.
09-20-2003, 11:41 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Corvallis, Oregon
Posts: 223
If the teflon encapsulated combustion O ring keeps wanting to pop out of the hylomar-laden groove, take it out and stretch it by hand a little. Sometimes they are a tad too tight as delivered from Rotary Aviation and don't quite fit the groove.
When gluing the corner piece on the apex seal, put a shim under the seal, place the seal between your micrometer which will be set at the housing width minus the published clearance, put some super glue (lightly) on the corner piece, and slide the corner piece between the apex seal and one end of the micrometer. It's a good idea to lock the micrometer to your length setting before gluing the parts. After a few minutes, cut off the excess glue from the sides using a razor.
When gluing the corner piece on the apex seal, put a shim under the seal, place the seal between your micrometer which will be set at the housing width minus the published clearance, put some super glue (lightly) on the corner piece, and slide the corner piece between the apex seal and one end of the micrometer. It's a good idea to lock the micrometer to your length setting before gluing the parts. After a few minutes, cut off the excess glue from the sides using a razor.
10-15-2003, 10:39 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 917
I haven't written a web-page on it, but I've got pictures listing all of the parts detailing the front cover assembly job (needle bearings, thrust plate, washer, and spacer, front cover o-ring and teflon ring, etc.).
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/1...CoverAssembly/
I need to make special note on the oil pump assembly:
It has a very tiny keyway on it that is used to index the drive gear for the oil pump chain. When placing the drive gear on the oil pump's shaft, the keyway has a tendency to be pushed out and then dropped on the floor. This is made particularly more difficult as it's hard to see the keyway when aligning the drive gear with the timing chain on it (aligning everything to slide on at once). If this happens, the drive gear will spin but not spin the oil pump shaft with it. This will result in no oil and immediate failure of the crankshaft and related bearings.
There's two methods (that I use) for getting around this annoyance:
-) Superglue the keyway in the keyway slot, making sure it's rock-solid tight before placing the drive gear on
-) Assemble the drive gear w/ the oil pump removed from the front cover (not bolted on yet). Assemble the drive gear for the oil pump chain that slides onto the crankshaft, then place the entire thing on at once.
B
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/1...CoverAssembly/
I need to make special note on the oil pump assembly:
It has a very tiny keyway on it that is used to index the drive gear for the oil pump chain. When placing the drive gear on the oil pump's shaft, the keyway has a tendency to be pushed out and then dropped on the floor. This is made particularly more difficult as it's hard to see the keyway when aligning the drive gear with the timing chain on it (aligning everything to slide on at once). If this happens, the drive gear will spin but not spin the oil pump shaft with it. This will result in no oil and immediate failure of the crankshaft and related bearings.
There's two methods (that I use) for getting around this annoyance:
-) Superglue the keyway in the keyway slot, making sure it's rock-solid tight before placing the drive gear on
-) Assemble the drive gear w/ the oil pump removed from the front cover (not bolted on yet). Assemble the drive gear for the oil pump chain that slides onto the crankshaft, then place the entire thing on at once.
B
10-15-2003, 10:57 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 917
Front eccentric shaft thermo-pellet:
This pellet is a temperature-actuated (enabled at 140F degrees oil temperature), spring-loaded unit that allows oil to flow into the front rotor's oil jacket (that's used to pull heat off of the rotor faces). It is used as a way to accelerate the warming-up process of the engine and engine oil.
Sometimes, this pellet can fail and remain stuck, allowing some to no oil from entering the cooling jacket and thereby over-heating the rotor. If you don't have the machined, aluminum pellet replacement, you can substitute it with (5) M7 flat washers stack atop the pellet, opposite of the two springs. This will permanently disable it and allow oil to enter the jacket at all times, even when cold.
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/13BFron...ypassPellet.Jpg
B
This pellet is a temperature-actuated (enabled at 140F degrees oil temperature), spring-loaded unit that allows oil to flow into the front rotor's oil jacket (that's used to pull heat off of the rotor faces). It is used as a way to accelerate the warming-up process of the engine and engine oil.
Sometimes, this pellet can fail and remain stuck, allowing some to no oil from entering the cooling jacket and thereby over-heating the rotor. If you don't have the machined, aluminum pellet replacement, you can substitute it with (5) M7 flat washers stack atop the pellet, opposite of the two springs. This will permanently disable it and allow oil to enter the jacket at all times, even when cold.
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/13BFron...ypassPellet.Jpg
B
10-20-2003, 05:19 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,871
Do you guys normally buy new tension bolts when rebuilding?
I've always gone by the rule of never reusing a bolt that's been torqued to spec before in a critical application. A 10 to 20 year old tension bolt certainly falls in this category.
I've always gone by the rule of never reusing a bolt that's been torqued to spec before in a critical application. A 10 to 20 year old tension bolt certainly falls in this category.