Hi I would like to know how to remove the sleeves. I checked on a 13BT rotor housing and I saw 2 littles holes, but I didn't see nothing in it. Do they have something to do with the sleeve removal ?



Also I want to put the 13BT sleeve on a rotor housing from a 13BRE. But on the 13BRE housing I don't see these little holes cause the is a metal plate in the sleeve. http://a.1asphost.com/Larch/Turbo%20...%20006_jpg.jpg



Someone knows how to remove this one too ?



Thanks

you have to dissaseemble the motor and then on the side of the rotor housing there is a pin that you have to remove in order to pull out the sleeves

The engine is already dissassemble. I didn't notice these pins. I will check more carefully next time. After the pins are removed, will it come out easily ??



Thanks

its sometimes hard to see it there when the housing is dirty

I just removed some minutes ago. I have some pictures of the removal process. I will post when I get home.

Used a Mig welder to puddle/ball ontop of the pin. Then just pulled them out and knocked the sleeve out..

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So is it possible to buy JUST THE SLEEVES for a turbo housing? I want to max out my NA, and I don't want those crappy NA sleeves in there disrupting exhaust flow.

Buy some from guys online, I just gave a set to a buddy. There are plenty of guys with blown t2 rotor housings https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png I have cut the n/a diffusers out before, and thats not fun....

Hope the welding didn't overheat and warp the aluminum housing ... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



B

I've also tried grinding out the diffusers... what a pain in the ass.



An easier method is to grab a set of vice grips, grab onto the diffuser, and the wrench back and forth from the backside. The diffusers will break right off at the welds, and then you use the die grinder/carbide bits to smooth the welds. Also, you can cut off the front lip with a dremel cutoff wheel, and then use a hydraulic press to press the slight remaining lip down. Total process took about an hour per pair.



Since then, I've been using a plasma cutter https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I've made requests before for blown turbo housings, and got no replies... most people just throw them out without thinking about any use for them.

the turbo diffusers dont just fit right in, you have to gridn down some of the aluminum on the hosuing where it fits around.

So the NA and T2 exhaust ports are different sizes? Do you mean that area around that outer lip must be enlarged, or the entire hole that the sleeve fits in?

Please give proper credit to JUDGE ITO for sharing that TIP with us last year. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

You're right I did find that out from Ito.



That housing is just for porting practice. I will keep in mind the warpage factor next time bdc. Maybe just tack then let it cool, tack then it cool . . .

Did you check the housing to see the extent of the heat damage? Im curious. I may have to go try it on a junk housing tonight.

I can look into tommorrow if I can happen to remember. I'm pretty busy with projects...

It looks a lost worse than it really is in those pic's. When I did this same method last weekend I had no problem handling the housing right afterwards. I'm sure it also depends on how big of a ball you weld on and what size welder/wire you use. I woulden't worry about warpage unless you decide to see how big of a ball you can weld onto it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

what works great for me is a wood screw that woudl start to thread into the pin and then just pulling it out.

When welding a pin ball to the roll pin no heat at all is exchanged to the rotor housing. I have touched the rotor housing around the welded pin right after the spot weld and the rotor housing did not absorb any heat. Cold to the touch. pretty cool idea in my book.

Thanks guys, now it seems much easier https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Thanks for pics kahren and 1Revvin7.

I tried it today, and it worked incredibly well. I highly recommend it. And it didnt mess up the alum. I filled a little, let it cool, did a little more, and after a few times of that, I had enough of a ball I could grab onto it, and the pins came right out.

Ok, good to hear Juan. I was just a little skeptical about it.



B

I forgot to add that mine was the same way. The alum was cold to the touch, and was not messed up at all from the weld bead.

In another thread it was said that leaving out the sleeve would increase power and make the exhaust note smoother and deeper. Are there any problems with leaving the sleeves out?

That was my question exactly. What happens if you leave the sleeve out all together? If there are down sides (in terms of power), can some porting/grinding work be done inside the port to fix it?

if u take out the sleeve and the port is stock or slightly ported, the area after the port, where the sleeve used to be, is too large then it tempers down again at the exhaust manifold, so you would be hurting flow. so if u get a large enouf header and then port enouf of the exhaust port, there will be plenty power to come from the port, of course considering the rest of the motor is modified properly to take advantage of this.



the diffuser also acts as a heat exchanger to teh header/exhaust manifold, but i am not sure of the actual downsides of that, many peopel are running without the sleeve and no downsides yet. i am not sure of the apex seal life expectancy with such a thing, i expect it to be less since i expect that area of teh rotor housing to run hotter. but i could be wrong.