Putting A Rotary Away For Storage
#31
Not sure if it still stands, but Armor All had some sort of advertisement campaign where if one was to use Armor All for the life of the part in a certain frequency, they would kind of "warranty" the part.
I could be mistaken but I believe Armor All is a water-based product. This would probably explain some of why it can hurt parts moreso than help them. Products like Black Magic's Tire Wet are silicone based I think.
I could be mistaken but I believe Armor All is a water-based product. This would probably explain some of why it can hurt parts moreso than help them. Products like Black Magic's Tire Wet are silicone based I think.
#32
Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Oct 31 2003, 10:11 PM
If you think most of the people in here don't have "real world experience" your in the wrong place. Thinking your more "experienced" than everyone gets you no where.
I have seen the fish-eyes in paint first hand. I did not do the paint work on the truck, but I did mechanical service work on the truck and other trucks at the same shop.
I was there for the whole degreasing of the paint, cleaning, prepping, sanding, priming, painting, and the results showed a ton of fish-eyes. The original owner even mentioned that he (and his wife) both go nuts with the armor all when they clean the truck. They were unaware that it's bad for the paint.
Dan hasn't been in to paint anything yet lately so I haven't had a chance to ask about this Prep-All stuff you use. He's suppost to be in tomorrow to prime a crane, so I'll ask him then if I get a chance.
Back to the topic of storing a rotary, I my original idea of dumping 2 stroke into the intake was just from other owners who said that's what they do when they store for winter. However I was unsure of how good an idea that was, but it seemed fesable. With the car sitting for 5-6 months, the 2 stroke would seep down into the motor, the same way it would if you flooded it with fuel, right? Even if it (somehow) hydraulically locked from 2 stroke even after sitting for months on end, it takes all of 10 minutes to remove the lead plugs and spin the starter, right? No big deal. I was more concerned about the validity of 2-stroke into the motor at all. Do I really need the extra lubrication? You guys are the experts. I was concerned about things like an apex seal spring sticking and loosing compression on a few faces from it drying out. But I don't know if it would even do it at all! I'm not too familiar with how I should go about it. I guess I started this thread basically out of paranoia. You guys know more about rotary storage than I do, so I thought I should ask.
Anyways thanks for your responses guys and some, if not all, of my questions have been answered.
Edit: Perhaps I should use 4-stroke 20w50 for storing instead, as Jeff suggested rather than ATF for use on internals? The only reason I thought of the 2 stroke was it was suggested by other owners, and it burns much cleaner after the initial startup after sitting for such a lengthy time. But if 4-stroke lubricates better, then perhaps I should go with that? ATF is more of a de-carbon trick, not lubrication. But Jeff's suggestion made me think of using 4-stroke instead of 2-stroke.
#33
Also I noticed I said I am converting to premix because IMO 4-stroke does not belong in the combustion chamber..
I would like to add to that statement by saying it does not belong in there on a regular basis the way the MOP regulates it, after seeing the carbon buildup on another torn apart 13B.
I would like to add to that statement by saying it does not belong in there on a regular basis the way the MOP regulates it, after seeing the carbon buildup on another torn apart 13B.
#34
Wow, a ton of fish eyes! LOL, Your boy thats been painting for 20 yrs sanded the armor all right into the paint!
Im sorry if you feel that I think im "more experienced" but when someone tells me they "once saw someone paint" and now their arguing with me about paint, it just makes me laugh. Sorry, in your case I am more experienced.
And ya know, i hate to come off like that. But i was forced into it.
Like I said before you wanna pour fluid into a running engine, go head. I dont care, but it aint on my concience.
Im sorry if you feel that I think im "more experienced" but when someone tells me they "once saw someone paint" and now their arguing with me about paint, it just makes me laugh. Sorry, in your case I am more experienced.
And ya know, i hate to come off like that. But i was forced into it.
Like I said before you wanna pour fluid into a running engine, go head. I dont care, but it aint on my concience.
#35
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Nov 1 2003, 05:37 PM
j9fd3s recently had a dash that was juicing a clear liquid. It may have been caused by Armor all. I've heard stories of interior parts cracking and blistering etc from Armor all. It seems STP protectant doesn't cause those types of problems.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Figure out what that says and I will tell you.
Posts: 162
Originally Posted by FikseRxSeven' date='Oct 30 2003, 02:53 AM
dont forget antifreeze if your car is not in a heated garage
p.s. Wasn't this a post about storing your car?*points to painting threads*
#37
Well we will see how it turns out. Plans changed from my original thought.
I have 2 stroke in the housings that I spin around by hand every week or so. I don't add more i just get it moving around. The rotors haven't locked or haven't been tough to spin by hand on the main pulley, and with the exhaust manifold off everything inside was nicely lubricated (to the extent of what you can see through the exhaust ports).
There is some antifreeze in the motor. Not alot but there is some sitting in there.
I plan on flushing the system once it's together and running.
I ended up pulling my motor and painting my engine bay with aircraft paint, as opposed to leaving the motor in and painting around the motor.
In about a month, month and a half, we will see how well it turns out.
I have 2 stroke in the housings that I spin around by hand every week or so. I don't add more i just get it moving around. The rotors haven't locked or haven't been tough to spin by hand on the main pulley, and with the exhaust manifold off everything inside was nicely lubricated (to the extent of what you can see through the exhaust ports).
There is some antifreeze in the motor. Not alot but there is some sitting in there.
I plan on flushing the system once it's together and running.
I ended up pulling my motor and painting my engine bay with aircraft paint, as opposed to leaving the motor in and painting around the motor.
In about a month, month and a half, we will see how well it turns out.
#38
Just to add I had alot of success with this..
Just two stroke in the chamber and spin it around..
Sat for almost over a year before firing it up, and it started first try, no problems, excellent compression.
Just two stroke in the chamber and spin it around..
Sat for almost over a year before firing it up, and it started first try, no problems, excellent compression.
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