Plaining and surfacing
09-12-2006, 11:45 AM
#11
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Posts: 352
10-14-2006, 11:17 PM
#12
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='835733' date='Sep 4 2006, 07:28 PM
If it is .004" or less I wouldn't do anything.
Lynn E. Hanover
The more square an engine, the more power it will make. Thats well proven in piston engines...
10-19-2006, 11:30 PM
#14
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Speedworks' post='841563' date='Oct 19 2006, 10:40 AM
Sorry, for not getting that 1revvin7, would you care to explain?
thx
the end plates hold the bearings, and if they get surfaced crooked, then the bearings will be crooked too.
in the scheme of things, lapping takes the nitriding off, and raises the possibility of making the engine "not straight"
for a street non turbo engine, its prolly not a big deal, but a race car or high hp turbo, stuff like that is
10-30-2006, 02:12 PM
#16
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Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by Speedworks' post='841563' date='Oct 19 2006, 12:40 PM
Sorry, for not getting that 1revvin7, would you care to explain?
thx
The more parallel( square) the sealing surfaces are, the better than are going to seal, especially when the engine is at operating temperatures. Piston engines make a LOT more power on the engine dynos when the correct procedures are used to hone or bore the cylinders.
10-31-2006, 12:39 PM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Freeport, Maine
Posts: 6
I just did a bit of resurfacing on my irons. I go to school for precision machine and had alot of advice given and decided that the best thing to do for my situation was to stone the housings. I only had like .0025 variance across the housing surface and no huge gouges(sp) so I used a machinest stone to go over it. It helped bring down the high spots and shine up the sealing surface a bit. I used cutting oil and a stone, not sure on the "grit" of the stone. I will re-measure them tomorrow to see the variance across the surface but don't expect much change, but it's nice for preparing the surface for sealing. I'd compare it to honing a cylender. Nothing beats lapping but if your irons arn't out of spec and you want to resurface them a bit this is a good way to go about it.
11-07-2006, 09:35 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 426
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='835733' date='Sep 4 2006, 04:28 PM
I used to run over the freshly ground iron with a DA (air powered orbital sander) with a piece of 220 silicone carbide paper glued to the pad, and kerosene flooded onto the iron.
Lynn E. Hanover
hey, i tried using the DA on a junk iron just for ***** n' giggles. it looks like it pitted.
do you know what's up with that?
the 3 pics are the same shot, just magnified.[attachment=40096:attachment][attachment=40097:attachment][attachment=40098:attachment]
11-14-2006, 12:06 AM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
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Originally Posted by dom_c' post='845168' date='Nov 13 2006, 03:33 PM
Yea how do you get rid of pitting like that? I've got a little bit on one of my irons.
Using 220 grit paper on a DA did not cause this pitting. It is corrosion related and typical of irons sitting on a shelf or on a concrete floor with no grease covering the machined surfaces. Or a junk engine with water in it.
If the iron is smooth to the touch, I would run over them with the DA and clean them. The pitting will hold a bit more oil and probably seal better. The DA will make little circles on the iron that you must look at very closely to see. It works just fine, and if you used the kerosene they will shine like new.
Lynn E. Hanover