Forgive my ignorance, but what kind of variance should you see, OP wise, on a brand new motor, and a motor with some mileage on it?
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Originally Posted by turborotor' post='789888' date='Dec 25 2005, 05:27 PM
Ito, when you have the chance can you post a picture of this. I'm having a hard time visualizing this step. |
Great stuff, Ito. Thanks a bunch.
B |
Thanks a million I am always inspired when I read ITO's stuff. You should write a book, Bro. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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Originally Posted by Judge Ito' post='671258' date='Feb 13 2005, 06:12 AM
Tip #1 I have made my own paper gasket for the oil pump. This gasket goes in between the pump and the engine. The gasket has to be no larger then half a thousand of and inch. I use school notebook paper. this way your not inferfering with the oil pump to engine clearance. I have primed the oil pump before the gasket and found the nasty air bubbles, then I primed the oil pump after my gasket and found absolutely no air bubbles coming out and through the oil system. firstly, i'm a bit more comfortable making a gasket as opposed to simply using silicone. so silicone is out for me. however, the thought of notebook paper is also a bit frightening to me also. i'm just leary about the notebook paper degrading with heat and contact with oil. have you ever pulled apart a motor you've built with this gasket and found the paper still in tact? also, what if one were to use that waxed paper that bakers use, might that be a better option? i also just measured some automotive gasket paper and i got 0.03125 inch, which is obviously a far cry from the 0.0005 inch that you recommend, but what if you torque the oil pump bolts down another pound? might that help with clearance issues? anyone have thoughts? |
Originally Posted by diabolical1' post='803680' date='Feb 23 2006, 09:28 PM
thanks for the tip here, Ito. let me preface by saying, i have nothing but the utmost respect for your talent and moreover, your selflessness when it comes to sharing with the masses. now, i'm not questioning you or your advice, per se, but i do have questions. firstly, i'm a bit more comfortable making a gasket as opposed to simply using silicone. so silicone is out for me. however, the thought of notebook paper is also a bit frightening to me also. i'm just leary about the notebook paper degrading with heat and contact with oil. have you ever pulled apart a motor you've built with this gasket and found the paper still in tact? also, what if one were to use that waxed paper that bakers use, might that be a better option? i also just measured some automotive gasket paper and i got 0.03125 inch, which is obviously a far cry from the 0.0005 inch that you recommend, but what if you torque the oil pump bolts down another pound? might that help with clearance issues? anyone have thoughts? |
You mean they shouldnt look like this when you take them apart? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Sarcasm intended.
[attachment=36643:attachment] [attachment=36644:attachment] |
awesome write up.
Mind stating what the proper oil pressure SHOULD be and a quick write up with pics of installing a oil pressure/temp gauge on the 13b |
use an adapter block for the fittings ...
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm "proper" oil pressure will vary according to application ... however, i've copied this directly from the Racing Beat page in the above link. you'd probably be better of starting a new thread to describe your proposed setup, then ask for advice from the experienced guys.
Originally Posted by Racing Beat
The normal oil pressure in a stock Mazda rotary is approximately 71 psi above 3,000 RPM, (110 psi above 3,000 RPM in the 1993-95 RX-7) and should never drop below 15 psi at idle (use a 0 to 125 psi gauge).
EDIT: i just tried the link and it takes you to the main menu. so use the drop down menu to the left and scroll down to oil info. choose the pressure/temperature adapter and it should all be there. |
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