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Front Cover Assembly

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by knonfs' post='864415' date='Mar 20 2007, 06:33 AM

B,



GREAT info!



Quick question though, what would happen if the cas gear sporcket is fitted with the beveled part towards the fron cover instead of the iron?



I can't remember if "overlooked" this


Nothing.



B
Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by BDC' post='864421' date='Mar 20 2007, 10:50 AM

Nothing.



B


Thanks, u r the man!



Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:14 PM
  #13  
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What if the thrust washer was facing the wrong way?



Thanks,



Anthony



Originally Posted by BDC' post='864421' date='Mar 20 2007, 10:50 AM

Nothing.



B
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:30 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by BDC' post='863332' date='Mar 13 2007, 09:22 AM



Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?


Note sure what you mean by that, as I've found the main problem to be keeping the cursed bearing spacer from dropping.



What I ended up doing is bolting a piece of angle iron across two bellhousing bolts so that it holds the E-shaft up. The bolts are spring loaded with valvesprings so the shaft can drop back down when I snug things up.
Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:54 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC' post='868550' date='Apr 17 2007, 10:14 AM

What if the thrust washer was facing the wrong way?



Thanks,



Anthony


The stack would have zero endplay, would become instantly short, and would destroy the thrust bearings and some of the front thrust assembly in short order. Know how I know?



B
Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BDC' post='869336' date='Apr 24 2007, 12:54 AM

The stack would have zero endplay, would become instantly short, and would destroy the thrust bearings and some of the front thrust assembly in short order. Know how I know?



B


I took apart a motor this weekend, turns out the thrust washer was not facing the right way or the oil gear. The guy ended up blowing the motor due to detonation I think, (the rotor was dented) and the apex seal gone on the front rotor.



I'll post some pics of the thrust washer after a few hundred miles. It looks like it was starting to go. if you can tell me what you think that would be great.



Thanks for the response,



Anthony
Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by iceblue
Just for reference as stated to always check the end play but you must do this with the parts un lubed and if the items check out ok tear down and reassembly with lube.




Originally Posted by BDC
Yep, stacking the items up in a step prior to doing the actual assembly. It's also a good and quick way to see if there's a problem w/ the stack itself. Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?



B
Sorry for bringing up such an old topic, but what difference does having everything lubed make?
Old Sep 1, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #18  
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The link no longer works... Is this information still available?
Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by electronicsguru22
The link no longer works... Is this information still available?
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1940
Old Oct 18, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by need rx7
Sorry for bringing up such an old topic, but what difference does having everything lubed make?


The oil takes up some of the clearance and adds some stiction, making it difficult to get an accurate measurement.



I'm lazy so I only put it together once and check it with a prybar on the flywheel. If it clunks, ship it. If it won't move, pull it apart and find out why.



I have only ever had one that didn't move, and that was because I mixed front end stack parts from different engines. Normally when I disassemble a core, I wire-tie the washer/bearings/spacer together so they can be reused as a set. On this particular engine the washer had severe spalling wear on one side so I grabbed a washer from a different engine. Oops.



Because I was short on time, I grabbed the original, spalled washer and put it in backwards so the main thrust loads from the clutch would be pushing on the smooth face. Perhaps not the best solution in hindsight but at the time, I was in a real big hurry to get the engine together, and philosophically I didn't expect the engine to last very long anyway. I've been using THAT car as a daily driver all year, since my regular driver decided to be a piece of crap, and it's still running just fine.
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