I will be porting my housings in the next week and I was wondering what everyones preferred steet port config was. As you know there are a few different ways of steet porting. I am just planning on taking it as big as possible, any thoughts or suggestions/warnings. I will have access to PFS port templates I believe. I think Rays templates are pretty big from what I remember. Dragon I 'm sure you have some experience here right?

Go BIG!...and be careful not to nick the sides of the end/intermediate plates. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

bigger is always better https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Yea that is the advice that Ray gave me today. I am a little hesitent to do it because If I **** up it's gonna cost me $300 or so. But you gotta crack a few eggs right?

There really isn't much to it. The only trick is just going slow as not to get in a rush and break throught the back side of the housing while grinding it out. A new housing will run you about $300 if you screw up. I'll get this thread rolling by Monday.

Ok I got an email from Rob at Pineapple racing earlier. I didn't think through everything I should have. I didn't think about boost creep. When I open up the ports for the exhaust it's gonna wanna creep up on me.I was thinking that a boost controller would simply cure this. It's not that simple apperently. So I am gonna need to port the wastegate to help keep the boost creep down. I may put in a restrictor pill as well. We'll see ho wit turns out. I did one exhaust port so far. The bits I got gummed up with alluminum quickly though and were not good for long. They were not carbide tipped. I got Ryans good digi camera now and I will get some pics tomorrow.

Also Rob informed me that you should be cautious how wide the ports get. The widerthey are you really risk the apex seal bowing into the port and breaking themselves.

ok, since nobody is replying to this i'm gonna ask a bunch of stupid questions, cuz i don't know much about all this milling and porting stuff. what does all of this do and how ? wait.. that was one question, but i'm curious. also, do these 3mm seals make your engine last longer? if so, why doesn't everyone do it? ok theres three

As long as someone broke the ice with stupid questions....Will this shorten the life of my engine, and is it appropriate for regular street driving? I don't mean is it legal, but will it run ok?

Make sure that you get carbide bits. Most rotary files will wear out pretty quickly when doing porting.

Yeah, try not to go too far toward the inside of the motor. Going up is what you really want to do.

Porting the engine is just where you enlarge both the intake and exhaust ports. It allows for more airflow. More CFM=more power.



When using 3 mm apex seals on a rotor made for 2 mm seals you have to cut the apex seal groove so the wider seals will fit. This is done on a milling machine. 3 mm seals are usually more durable, but they don't seal quite as well as 2 mm seals. I like my 3 mm seals.

do they make more durable 2 mm seals than the stock ones? do these make the life of the engine longer?

Apex seals aren't the only part of the engine that fails. There are other companies that make 2 mm seals besides Mazda. I wouldn't know which is better as the only seals I have ever used were either Mazda 2 mm or Hurley 3 mm.

I spoke to Peter today about this. He says that mazda's stock 2mm apex seal is the best one there is. . Ray his head tech runs 643 rwhp on stock 2mm apex seals and hasn't broke one yet.He and Peter both swear by them. Since mine are fine, I checked them on a straight edge to make sure that they are not bowed out. I will just reuse them. He also told me that on any reman they stock apex seals are always reused and only get replaced if they are not up to spec. So they are not replaced just for the sport of it. If ya catch my drift.

Ok ace13b answered but here is mine. Porting involves opening the intake and/or the exhaust ports on the housings. The are three general types of ports

Street port

Bridge port

Periphial port



The street port is the most common. This basically involves opening up the in take a little on the top and botom. This is done by cutting away the alluminum by hand using a pnuematic rotary tool and a few Carbide burrs.

I learned that is is uncommon and unnecessary to open the exhaust ports any on a street car i.e. on stock turbos. Otherwise you will get boost creep most likely and will have to port oyt the wastegate opening in the turbo manifold to try to even things out a bit if you will.



I think generally your average street port adds apx. 30% more hp on the engine.





Notice the difference between the stock port and the "street" ported housing.

Yeah, that's what I've heard too, BUT the 3 mm seals are better for us "seat of the pants" tuners. That's literally how I tuned my car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I hear that. Peter said only a ping is a ping! A good ping will take out 2mm and 3mm.

That's probably true. I may try a 2 mm motor in the future, but for now I'll stick to the 3 mm I already have. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Yea I wouldn't change it now.

I got some pics in the works guys. I just need the patch cable.

I did a bunch of research on apex seals and i've basically decided to stick with the stock 3 piece 2mm seals too... although ceramics have their benefits they only come in 2 or 1 piece so they don't seal as well as the 3 piece.... although it would be nice to not have any seal float > 8500rpm.

here you can see where I started on the exhaust ports.The stock is on the left.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1035560505.jpg

Wholy ****.. damn I was in Guam for the last 4 days so I missed all this...



I've always used stock apex seals, but we're trying Atkins 2mm seaks in Igy's car right now and they seem to be kicking ass.. I plan on using them in my engines in the future... Here is some good reading on porting...



****, why can't I add a attachment..

Try not to go too high with the exhaust port Dave since it will increase overlap.

I have been told that the atkins seals dont seal as well. What kind of compression numbers are you guys getting. Nice to see you back. I was begining to feel like the only guy left here with a FD.

with stock mazda seals my FD engine has 150 psi compression....

Are you sure it's not 130 PSI? 150 is quite a bit more than stock.

150.... on both rebuilds.... everything is NEW.... those were not even with the engine broken in!



i saw another engine he did in the car... tested it..... 150psi... a 91 TII bridgeport engine for MPH Datsun race car

150 psi!!!!! WTF? 131 is about where everyone wants to have their engine 131 psi = 9 kg/cm2 and that's some REALLY good compression. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

I will bring this back up just to explain what people mean when they say "you don't want to much over lap" Ok see where the groove in the face of the plate is that is labeled corner seal track. See how it just barely grazes by the top left corner of the port. If that port is made too large and the over lap of port and rotor is to big the corner seal will get sucked into the intake port and boom .. bye bye engine.



I was asked this the other day by a forum member and I had to ask someone myself to make suer I got it right. Makes perfect sense to me now and hopefully you too.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1035436272.jpg

Now see how I take mine dangerously close to that corner seal track.

I am hoping that I didn't make this to big. I will get Ray at PFS to look themover for me before I reassemble the engine just to make sure it's ok.

Better safe than sorry.

looks damn good dude.......your still running the stock twins, right?

Yes and I am going to be running them non sequential when it goes back together.

The things you can do with the Power FC and datalogit are unlimited and have way better resolution..

I was very impressed with Ryan's setup, but after I worked all the bugs out of my system...AND the benefits of the datalogit, I think I'm just as fast, or right on his ass. I'm sure the PMS was good for it's time, but after datalogit...the PFC pays for itself 100 times over. And with the commander, it's like having gauges everywhere!



Its getting cooler in Okinawa now, so I turned my fan temps higher so that I can stay in the heat range I want....all of that with a push of a button. Going non-sequential?...no resistors to solder in, just unplug solenoids, cut ends off and heat shrink them down. If I want to increase Oil metering...BAM...done. Change my injectors?...BAM done.



I'm ALMOST finished tuning the bottom end of the car(the light to moderate driving stage) and it's SO SWEET right now. The top end was EASY...datalogged about 30 runs and the whole map is done with fuel and timing.

part throttle cruising is a pain to tune even on a haltech but once you get it its GOOD ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

what exactly are u useing to do this? and i likethe bud can in the back too

It's not hard, it's just that It's hard to identify where the stuttering is at sometimes. I normally keep it on map trace and then glance over whe I feel a "bucking". It's getting REAL light now...but somewhere in the 2000 rpm range, and light throttle(-400 vacuum) it has a hesitation/bucking...

Dave, make sure to take some nice pics and measurements if possible of your final designs. I'd like to have them for reference... I can't wait to see what type of curve you end up with on the dyno! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Brian

did you disable the O2 sensor yet Jspec??