Corner Seals
10-10-2003, 02:22 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Queens, New York
Posts: 204
If the rubber of the corner seal is able to fall into the port at all
that only means you went to wide with your porting. But if you plan to go that aggessive with your porting the solid seals maybe a better bet. They may give you that little extra ley way that get you buy. I don't like to play the odds that close usually so it's not a issue for me personally.
that only means you went to wide with your porting. But if you plan to go that aggessive with your porting the solid seals maybe a better bet. They may give you that little extra ley way that get you buy. I don't like to play the odds that close usually so it's not a issue for me personally.
10-10-2003, 08:02 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Okinawa Japan at McDonalds
Posts: 472
Originally Posted by pk797' date='Oct 11 2003, 04:22 AM
If the rubber of the corner seal is able to fall into the port at all
that only means you went to wide with your porting. But if you plan to go that aggessive with your porting the solid seals maybe a better bet. They may give you that little extra ley way that get you buy. I don't like to play the odds that close usually so it's not a issue for me personally.
that only means you went to wide with your porting. But if you plan to go that aggessive with your porting the solid seals maybe a better bet. They may give you that little extra ley way that get you buy. I don't like to play the odds that close usually so it's not a issue for me personally.
Has anyone actually pulled apart a motor where the only problem was a cracked stock corner seal? I am seriously asking this question because I want to know, not because I am trying to be an ***/*******.
10-11-2003, 09:55 AM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Okinawa Japan at McDonalds
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A little added extra bonus! This took me a while to find.
"Then don't use the rubber piece!
I won't even use the rubber piece with a good street port!"
This a direct quote from an old post made by crispeed.
Here's the thread on the evil forum
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.ph...ght=corner+seal
"Then don't use the rubber piece!
I won't even use the rubber piece with a good street port!"
This a direct quote from an old post made by crispeed.
Here's the thread on the evil forum
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.ph...ght=corner+seal
10-11-2003, 10:35 AM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 564
Igy, I took apart a series 4 with broken corner seals, the rotors had been milled for 3mms.. There are two things about this motor which may have lead to the broken corner seals, first was there was only .001 clearance between the sideseals and the corner seals, so the corner seal was broken on that rotor side, exactly where the side seal points to it, so I am surmising that the side seals expanded and pinched the corner seal, breaking it...
There were no rubbers left in this engine, and it had been rebuilt about 10k km's before it let go, by a local shop...
The seal edge on the rear rotor had let go, and the apex basically folded over the rotor face, on a dyno run at 14 psi or so...
The other contributing factor that I can see in this motor, is that the rotor milling is in the wrong place, its offset instead of being centred, so when the apex seals are put in, they are very tight and hard to move because they are binding on the corner seal slot, which appears to be centred..All in all its a disaster of a motor, but it ran, although from day one it barely made 80 psi per rotor face with stock ports..Maxt
There were no rubbers left in this engine, and it had been rebuilt about 10k km's before it let go, by a local shop...
The seal edge on the rear rotor had let go, and the apex basically folded over the rotor face, on a dyno run at 14 psi or so...
The other contributing factor that I can see in this motor, is that the rotor milling is in the wrong place, its offset instead of being centred, so when the apex seals are put in, they are very tight and hard to move because they are binding on the corner seal slot, which appears to be centred..All in all its a disaster of a motor, but it ran, although from day one it barely made 80 psi per rotor face with stock ports..Maxt
10-14-2003, 03:43 PM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Queens, New York
Posts: 204
IGY
What I was talking about is, when you altering your intake port you can widen it to a point, without effect reliability, but beyond that point your going to run into a reliability issues. This as you may already know is especially true when it comes to the "opening" part of the port alone the long curve next to were the corner seal travels. If you continue to port (which you can if you want) past that point your going to run into a situation were your corner seal path now becomes smaller. Inevitablity if you continue even further with the width of your port one of two things is going to happen (in my experience). First your going to run the very real risk of the rubber part of the corner seal falling into the port. Jamming everything up and ruining your motor, or depending on how wide you went the whole corner seal itself may find itself a new home in your ultrawide port. Again ruining the motor. In either case you can't necessarily blame the seal. The seal is just going alone for the ride. It's up to you and your port design to make sure there is a large enough path for that seal to travel on.
What I also said was that if your going to go wide with your ports you may find better results with a solid seal, because while a soild seal may not give you the same compression numbers as the two peice, it may hold up better with your larger port configeration. P.S. I don't think your a a-hole and I hope this helps.
PK797 NYC
What I was talking about is, when you altering your intake port you can widen it to a point, without effect reliability, but beyond that point your going to run into a reliability issues. This as you may already know is especially true when it comes to the "opening" part of the port alone the long curve next to were the corner seal travels. If you continue to port (which you can if you want) past that point your going to run into a situation were your corner seal path now becomes smaller. Inevitablity if you continue even further with the width of your port one of two things is going to happen (in my experience). First your going to run the very real risk of the rubber part of the corner seal falling into the port. Jamming everything up and ruining your motor, or depending on how wide you went the whole corner seal itself may find itself a new home in your ultrawide port. Again ruining the motor. In either case you can't necessarily blame the seal. The seal is just going alone for the ride. It's up to you and your port design to make sure there is a large enough path for that seal to travel on.
What I also said was that if your going to go wide with your ports you may find better results with a solid seal, because while a soild seal may not give you the same compression numbers as the two peice, it may hold up better with your larger port configeration. P.S. I don't think your a a-hole and I hope this helps.
PK797 NYC
10-16-2003, 01:41 AM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Okinawa Japan at McDonalds
Posts: 472
Yes, you can drop a corner seal into the port if you go out to much. This is a very big port. It takes very little porting out to drop a rubber piece. By running a solid corner I am not going to be able to port out any further than a stock corner with no rubber piece and there is actually less reliability when using the solid corner in my experience(PHE 2000 and Scoot). What is another reason to use a solid corner seal other than the stock seals crack, because the solids will fail just as easily as the stock from what I have seen.
10-19-2003, 05:55 AM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Okinawa Japan at McDonalds
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Originally Posted by Drago86' date='Oct 19 2003, 06:33 PM
could you flip the corners over so the plug was on the inside, and didnt fall into the port?