Bought a bench grinder from sears for $50.

 

i think i was just using a sandpaper bit, it might be better to get it super close and use a finer bit. i did it this way to try and keep the shape, if you look at the side seal one end is finished, one end is not



mike

 

I use the old fashion way. Emery cloth.. I sand and check, sand and check,sand and check. Side seal clearance is very important.. I wrote up somewhere some of my proven tips on sideseal clearance...

 

I'm curious about the answer to this question?

 

Yea Im still waiting myself to see what they say.

I know what PFS says about that

 

One end of each side seal is a bit more pointed or has a steeper angle on it than the other.



Years back there were two side seals on each rotor where there is one now. The grooves came out at a slight angle to the side of the rotor. So that one end of each seal ran into the corner seal at a steep angle thus requiring the sharper end of the seal. So the sharp end was used as the stock end and the more square end was trimmed to get the fit.



Now there is no steep junction to deal with, so we trim off the sharper end to get the fit.



I fit the side seal at zero clearance. So long as the side seal and corner seal, when depressed together will be returned by the springs, that is enough clearance.



The side seals are pushed along by one corner seal, and that seal will get a wear mark on it where the side seal sits against it. So that wear makes for more clearance. Plus the centrifugal load alone makes for more clearance.







Another view of the single rotor. The copper plumbing is just for the dyno mule.

Note the slightly crude crank trigger. Also to change later. Over 100 HP.





Lynn E. Hanover

 

So, what are the proper clearances and tolerances for the side seals?

 

check the fsm

 

.002 - .006



The Judge says he has good results with .003



make sure a .003 gauge fits in every side/corner and a .004 WON'T.

 

good student.. you payed attention..